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Ingredient 16 & Ogre Canyon Sidewall (video)

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  • Ingredient 16 & Ogre Canyon Sidewall (video)

    This link is a video documenting the ascent of the Ingredient 16 and Ogre Canyon sidewall ice climbs located near Hinton Alberta:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XmhpH42qU0&t=888s

    It's interesting to note that both of these climbs are graded WI3 is the JoJo guidebook. I've climbed the I-16 a few times and it's never been easier than hard WI4 and when this video was taken it was closer to WI6 and WI5 (40m of sustained dead vertical climbing on wind affected ice). The Ogre Canyon sidewall is easier, but usually tricky, because of the high volume of water flowing under the ice and the tricky ice conditions this creates. I thought I'd post the video so someone can see for themselves and not be surprised when you show up and find non-grade 3 conditions. It could be that the first ascent was done in easy conditions, or more likely, the first ascent party were very good ice climbers combined with a propensity to sandbag.... :-)

  • #2
    Is that your vid Aaron? Some nice climbs in it.

    I have a couple of suggestions. Contact Cyril seeing as he looks to be the FA common to both climbs and discuss the grade. Second if local consensus or your chat deems another grade; we have a new forum here on GSI for people to make suggestions and discuss things like that so Will can add it to his upgrade list for the app. The app obviously now replaces JoJo's 4th Ed so it would be good to get your input there.
    .

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    • #3
      Ingredient 16 is WI4 at minimum.

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      • #4
        Yep, it's all my video. I don't like to get caught up in grade discussions, but I have had a few friends that were WI3 leaders and were wanting to go climb I16 because of the WI3 grade, and I have a hard time convincing them that I've never seen it in grade 3 condition; like Ted says; grade 4 at minimum. I thought maybe a video of the climb would help, so people don't make the approach expecting something a lot easier.

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