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Rockies - Field - Mt Denis Photos

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  • Rockies - Field - Mt Denis Photos

    Photos from Mt Denis today. All climbs look to be in great mid season conditions. We climbed Guinness in as fat conditions as I have seen. Even the first pitch is wide enough for a couple of climbers to be comfortable side by side.

    Brent Peters

    Alpine Guide

    PeakStratagem - Teaching Success

  • #2
    hey anybody around fielad in the last couple of day? did the beer icefall survive at the last chinook?


    • #3
      Seems like my conditions post offended some so I've erased it.

      Cristiano, the guy asking for the conditions report, actually emailed me to thank me for the report.

      The Steve House mixed route down of Old Milwaukee looks like it's in too.


      • #4
        Climbed Pilsner with Andrew today. We opted for the center left hand side of the remaining pillar. While it maybe wasn't as steep and sustained as it has formed in years past, it certainly didn't feel "like a ladder" as described above. It offered a blend of nice mushroomy hooks and big lenses (with good pro) for the majority of the crux pitch. However, the last 5-10 m or so was some of the grottiest, dirtiest, most aerated ice I've had to climb in a while. This definitely added to the spice factor. If I were to climb it again I'd consider cutting a bit more left. We continued on up on the next few WI3-4 pitches and found good (but occasionally soggy) ice. All in all a good day.


        • #5
          Let's face it, for many this has become more of a "look at what I did" site than anything else. Now someone goes out and climbs a route and feels wimpy because it seems a little harder then a ladder. The irony is that now everyone in the world knows everything is "easy", it will get even more hooked out.

          The only thing missing here is your time and the downgraded number of each route. Cue the Mango you loser troll posts.


          • #6
            I forgot to mention that our original objective was Superbock. When we got to Field, the climb did not appear to be in (from our vantage from across the highway) without a fair about of drytooling.


            If you don't want route beta I'd suggest not using the site whose purpose was to provide route beta. Just my 2 cents. I'd agree some posts (possibly including my own) could use more detail with respect to beta, and less emphasis on tick lists.


            • #7
              Originally posted by MANGO
              Cue the Mango you loser troll posts.
              Tim... waddaya doing. You keep opening your favourite can of worms, then invite people to flame you for it.

              Originally posted by MANGO
              Let's face it, for many this has become more of a "look at what I did" site than anything else.
              That's a little inaccurate. Sure ego's get stroked a wee bit but that's not what "many" do or why. Some post regular, some rarely, some only ask questions about conditions but never post what they find, others only post when they find or lose gear. We've had people post trip reports, we've had people post new routes. We've had people post about hard routes, and others post about easy routes.

              BTW did you read my post on climbing Grotto Falls this past weekend? My ego won't allow me to reveal I didn't even lead it.

              Originally posted by MANGO
              Now someone goes out and climbs a route and feels wimpy because it seems a little harder then a ladder. The irony is that now everyone in the world knows everything is "easy", it will get even more hooked out.
              Now in the case you refer to, you have a well known and accomplished climber make a general statement about some climbs being easy. There are a couple of scenarios come to mind. Being a well competent climber, possibly Pilsner did indeed feel easier than usual and possibly others may have felt wimpy.

              On the other hand maybe it really wasn't as easy as a ladder but then you get some relatively new climber just breaking into leading steep ice who mistakes the description of a ladder and thinks he can make an easy tick. Maybe because another person points out that Pilsner isn't quite a ladder and gives a more detailed description of conditions, our newb re-evaluates and avoids getting into a scene where he's over his head, pumped, run out, looking at a nasty fall or worse, all because he assumed "a ladder" was easy. Surely you can't purport that this second scenario is a good situation to let happen?

              Now when it comes to routes getting more traffic, yes when information is shared traffic does increase to at least a small degree. More posts, with more information, on more routes, will lead to those same climbers spreading out and lowering the congestion you seem to fear.

              On a more general term relating to your post, I see CJaeger already self moderated his comments to remove the all caps, but his point still stands. This is a website for sharing route conditions. Its certainly far from the only such website on the internet that does so. Neither does the whole world read this website. Not even every local or visitor bothers checking here. Mostly those who come to Gravsports Ice do so because they are seeking information. I gleen a mine of information from others posts, which is why this past weekend I shared relevant information on two areas I was at. I responded to three posts with questions from users who were seeking information or opinions. They wouldn't have been here, nor asked questions if they didn't want to know.

              Let me try to structure this in a way that illustrates why what you keep detracting about sharing information doesn't make sense to me. When you go backcountry skiing Tim, do you load up the gear, head out, and trust only your own observations? Undoubtedly knowing what you're doing is important. Digging to evaluate local snow conditions is a good step right. So what about checking the MCR reports, reading the avi bulletins, checking with friends who were in the same area recently, or checking online conditions pages. The truth is that if you're backcountry skiing and not gathering as much information as possible, you're endangering yourself, whoever is with you, and risking your kid missing a parent. I bet you'd call it being irresponsible.

              How is ice climbing any different to all that? Not only is it a matter of increasing safety, but raising the enjoyment factor. You're in a better position as a teacher in that you get more time off than someone like me who only has weekends. You can afford to take time to head to Golden, or to lose a day to poor conditions, but weekend warriors use ski websites or Gravsports to research conditions and maximize their recreational time.

              On an unrelated note, this is supposed to be a conditions forum so I'll apologize for a response unrelated to conditions.


              • #8
                Cristiano, the guy asking for the conditions report, actually emailed me to thank me for the report.

                As an example of why I post conditions usually, recently I posted on gravsports about a rarely done route. Since then I have heard from three teams who now want yo go and climb it. How encouraging!

                In reference to Mt. Dennis, my post emphasized that the climbing experience on Stout and High Test was of a different, I would say better, quality than on the rest of the Mt. Dennis pitches. Thought I could share that news and who knows maybe encourage people to go to pitches which hadn't been climbed so much.

                Maybe some people are looking for fresh ice and not hooking?

                So Mango, that's my explanation.


                • #9
                  hey guys why we don't just enjoy the ice season without fight for stupid thing? too much talking on internet....

                  foe iwested thx for your beta they were more than useful, pilsener was really hooked and also the end i still enjoyed both with my wife..but I agree in easy shape


                  • #10
                    Nothing's easy, only easier or harder than what you have done previously.

                    LOL because I find it hard enough to get out of bed!

                    Good link up Ian, great write up Grant. All kinds of opinion welcomed.

                    Now back to that broken pick of mine...
                    The \"Old\" French Guy