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Eye of the Storm (M6 WI5 700m), Storm Mt.

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  • Eye of the Storm (M6 WI5 700m), Storm Mt.

    Thanks to Ian Welsted, Ethan Berman and I were clued into some current climbing potential on the lower flanks of Storm mountain. Selling features on this route include cool ice climbing, great gear throughout (!!!) and a 100m M6 quartzite mixed corner high on the route! Though not a true alpine route (no summit, tree-line climbing), it makes for a very fun day of mixed and ice climbing. A Zeitgeist-style route (on Mt. Bell, probably also in good conditions right now!)

    Eye of the Storm (700m, WI5 M6), Storm Mountain

    FA: Ethan Berman, Maarten van Haeren, Oct 16, 2019

    Approach: Hike to Upper Twin Lake, following hiking trails from 93S or Castle Junction (both 2:30-3:00 hrs). Hike N shore of the lake and approach route (1:00-1:30hrs from lake).

    Rack: Cams to #3, hexes, pins (2 angles, 4 KBs, 3-4 beaks), 10 screws (short & long), 12-14 draws. We thought we had 60m ropes, but they turned out to be 70s!

    Climbing:

    P1 (WI3, 70m): Climb easy ice to below steep pillar

    P2 (WI5 M6, 70m): Climb steep ice for 30m, pull a brief overhang (could be pure ice in good year) and continue up an aesthetic ice goulette, stretching the rope for a sheltered belay.

    P3-5 (WI3 + snow, 180m): Continue up snow and ice till below the next long ice drip (and a deep chimney on the R)

    P6 (WI3 M5, 70m): Climb a slanting groove (sustained at grade) on the L side of the ice, gaining the ice flow. Belay here or continue to the end of the ice.

    P7 (M5, 60m): The one scrappy pitch. From the end of the ice, follow chimney on R. Step onto a ridge notch, then step back left to continue to another ridge (good ledge/ridge belay). The upper corner should be visible from the belay.

    P8 (M5, 50m): Traverse R from belay and start up the striking quartzite corner. Belay on obvious ledge on R (save a 0.4 cam for anchor).

    P9 (M6, 60m): Continue up the corner on more great climbing and gear, through a small overlap. Exit corner, move up and R to small ledge and views of the NE face proper.

    P10 (M4 70m): Step R and continue up the blunt ridge.

    P11 (M5 70m): Follow a snow/ice gulley on R to E ridge of Storm mountain.

    Descent: As for E Ridge of Storm Mountain. From top out, scramble briefly N and make one 30m rappel (slung block). Walk towards lower Twin lake (traverse high!!!), then meet lake at N end.

    P1060066.jpeg
    Upper gully of P2

    DSC00085 copy.jpg

    Upper corner of P8 & 9

    Screen Shot 2019-11-21 at 12.50.02 PM.jpg
    Route overview
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Mvanhaeren; 21-Nov-2019, 01:17 pm.
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