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Bourgeau N side mixed route

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  • Bourgeau N side mixed route

    Doug Hollinger Sebastian Taborszky and I climbed what may be a new route yesterday on the north side of Mt. Bourgeau. We couldn’t find any information about the line but if anyone knows anything about the line please inform us. The climb is located on the north side of Mt Bourgeau, 5 kms up the hikers trail on the south (left)side of the valley. We started 30m left of the dagger to gain the upper ice.
    P1 - 55m M4+
    Start in a short left facing corner and follow the ramp up and right to a 2-bolt station. Good gear in the crack, frozen dirt sticks, and a couple hand jams. Nice pitch.
    P2 - 70m WI3+
    Climb the ice above until you run out of rope. Belay off ice at a good stance below the final short flow
    P3 - 25m WI3+
    Stop at the lip and belay off ice.
    3 raps get you down.

    We hiked up a short distance above this last pitch but the ice did not continue and terrain mellowed out.

    We started on a direct bolted line to the dagger but had some troubles with our drill. The line is not complete and is a closed project for now. We will get up there soon to finish it.

    I wouldn’t be surprised if the route has been climbed given its short approach, but you never know.

    Approach: hike up the Bourgeau lake trail for 1.5hrs (5km) to just below the route. Bushwhack up through the trees on the left side of the drainage for 20 minutes to the base.

    Rack: single set .4-3” BD cams, doubles 2”-3”, screws, 70m ropes. We didn’t place any pins.

    Fun easy route with a casual approach.

    The route is in complex terrain so check the avalanche forecast before you go. The approach is not threatened by avalanches but once you are in the gully there is overhead hazard.

    Thanks to Graeme Loerke for most of the pictures and Doug for spotting the line
    Last edited by kirwin; 30-Oct-2019, 08:53 am.

  • #2
    You know Will is going to ask for a waypoint and tracklog right? Do you have a reference you can add here, and a route name for the record?


    • #3
      Grant - Ill send Will what he needs after we confirm that it is indeed a new route. I do have a track, waypoints, etc..