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New Quartzite Mixed Rig at the Lake

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  • New Quartzite Mixed Rig at the Lake

    Forgot to write up the mixed rig I put up on the abandoned project on far right side of Hydrotherapy Wall at the Lake last winter. The area is shaded, usually stays wet and moss is growing back over the previously established routes to the left. The area has been pretty much abandoned for summer cragging but as a consolation prize it has some of nicest rock you might ever hook your tools onto. Thanks for the go ahead on the unfinished old projects GregG

    Using a stick clip will keep you from from landing in the water at the start as it's thin there and easy to bobble off. Quite steep for the first 3 clips (there are secure locker tool placements but they're not obvious) move right and finish up slightly overhanging to vertical terrain to the top. The majority climbing feels insecure (pumpy) as climbing it requires pick torqing, elbow/knee/shoulder jams, sideways stein moves and frozen dirt sticks. It finishes off (crux) with a thin sketchy mantle to clip the chains.(Leave that little tree alone at the right of the top crux!)

    If you're only used to climbing drilled out peg board style routes (secure placements) you're in for a pumpfest. The old school alpine folks will be doing laps on it. lol

    Please don't climb the route until it has time to freeze up to minimize wear and tear from tools and crampons. There is nothing big and loose but whipping onto cams, pounding in pins or hexes or climbing it when it's not frozen up would really make a mess of the line. (zoom into the 2nd pic and you'll understand) It's a perfect place to practice placing clean gear and movement on that style of climbing with bomber clips so you don't have to break your ankles learning those skills. There's lots of clips... it's very well protected.

    Thanks for all of the help from friends who patiently sat there freezing their butts off to help and carry in gear. It took a lot of separate trips to drill 12 bolts in sub zero temps and 3 toasted drill bits as it's quartzite. Gives an alternative (and the cable gullies area) to stay warm waiting instead of climbing under people if Louise Falls is a gong show. + it's fun, safe and pumpy

    My daughter decided to name the route..... Princess Meow Meow! M6+ or easy M7 10 clips 22m high. "Clip and go" lower off chain station installed at the top. Cheers!
    Last edited by DarrenM; 16-Sep-2019, 02:50 pm.
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