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  • #31
    Hey Jane, if it is all about protection, why don't you jump on Musashi, or easier yet, say, Caveman, ok forget that! Try Swank! after all, all are very well protected with bolts... I think mere mortals have no biz in dissing climbing styles of those that put up routes we can only look at.Now if Will decided to put up some M4 I would be all over him for "style" ) Happy climbing all! Tongue firmly in cheek; the doc

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    • #32
      HAHAHA YEAH SWANK! And not [just] the magazine either!

      Speaking of good pro - The 4th bolt on Swank holds a fall... well, as of two weekends ago it did ;-)

      Got to the halfway ledge, breathed a sigh of relief, thought "Oh yeah, she's in the bag now baby." POP goes the other tool while I'm searching for that good hold (I'd climbed the route once on TR a month or so ago) and suddenly I'm airborne... then when everything came to a stop a few seconds later I was really glad those bolts were there and placed nice and close together.

      To whoever put up the route... GRRRREAT STYLE!!!!! ;-)

      YEAH!!!!

      JW

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      • #33
        Hi Will,

        hey I was thining of going there with a client who climbs up to WI5+ do you think things are still in condition- I know nothing of the area- worth it to go guiding? Cheers Eric

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        • #34
          Hi Eric, it's a great area with a lot of potential, but there just isn't much information yet on the water ice in the area. There is some vertical spray ice on the edges of the cave, but that is some of the first ice to see sun and melt out as the sun comes around. Most all of the spray ice is done by my last contact a week ago, but there could definitely be some other waterfall ice lurking in the area...

          That whole area of BC has a tremendous amount of potential. It's just really hard to figure out where the good stuff is! Good luck, email me if I can help with anything specific.

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          • #35
            Just got the newest issue of Rock & Ice. The online descriptions do not do this cave justice - Tim Emmett's photo, however, puts it all into perspective.

            Impressive location and climb. Planning a trip there for next season already...
            The Alpine Start

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            • #36
              will

              what are the chances of finding the bolts again after a wind and some cold weather?

              c

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              • #37
                If you just walked up to the wall and looked for the bolts I'd suspect the odds of finding them would be low, as ice would tend to form on them first I think. But I have a few ideas to solve this...

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                • #38
                  some flagging tape would probably do the trick, if the critters dont eat it all

                  i guess it would still ice up.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by iceadmin
                    If you just walked up to the wall and looked for the bolts I'd suspect the odds of finding them would be low, as ice would tend to form on them first I think. But I have a few ideas to solve this...
                    Blowtorch? Oh, wait...


                    The Alpine Start

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                    • #40
                      Clearly the optimal method to remove the ice from the bolts would deliver a controllable and pinpoint accuracy stream of warm liquid, quickly melting the ice off while not disturbing the surrounding formations.

                      If both Tim and Will drink copiously the night before they should be able to improvise such a delivery system with little more than a zipper pull. Spray On, indeed.

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