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NEW Route - Calgary Climbing Centre - Chinook

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  • NEW Route - Calgary Climbing Centre - Chinook

    New gigga-classic sent in the steep-side of the cave - on the "C" scale which is 1-5, likely a 7, it's not tapped, so you kind of need the beta, and it's only got another day left before it gets ripped down off the wall. It's been tried by many and many failures - so it's got to be SUPER HARD right? It doesn't matter who tried, just that they failed. It may or may not have been completed, but that's pretty irrelevant these days. It kicked many that they got so mad they actually went outside to get any send in, just to make themselves feel better - one of them went and did "The Wild Thing"? sounds kind of lame - so lame they did some new direct start to it. Others did some link ups of the Stanley Headwall - Suffer and Nemesis. Others Haffner main canyon and the Hoar Cave. I wonder how'd they rate on the "C" scale maybe C3 ...

    This'll make TJSR and any others quiver in shame.

    If you can't make it or you don't source the beta, Saturday will have some rad tapped problems from the Friday (last in the Series) comp at the Chinook CCC. They'll stay tapped long enough to contact Gripped and others - get your game on ...


  • #2
    LOL Funny shit JD.

    I heard that my name is in a magazine in Canmore/Banff. Highwire or Highline Magazine or something. And the poor magazine - they probably think that I'm actually a good climber or something... that joke is on them... LOL... Anyway, the article is about Rehab Wall I guess. I haven't seen or read it personally, nor did anyone from High-whatever magazine contact me for any info... but I guess now I'm famous or something... just waiting for the sponsors to all jump on the JW bandwagon now... think I'll be waiting for a long time... Oh well, I'm happy to share the fact that there's some good ice in the Evan Thomas Creek area with other climbers, and I was happy to be involved with the first ascents, but to be honest I'm not all that happy about my name being in some magazine about it. I posted up here with the route info and that was enough. To me that area isn't worth more than a simple writeup on here and inclusion in the next edition of the guidebooks... Anyway, wasn't it BP & company who put up the mixed routes in Rehab? Must be a connection there between the magazine article and BP...?

    On a completely different note, what's up with the "C" scale anyway? Is the CCC trying to come up with a new grading system or something? Why not stick to the V grades?

    Oh, and all this has inspired me to put together a slideshow from Green Monster. That's one intense climb. LOL. Cheers guys.

    Jason Wilcox


    • #3
      JD and Marcus,

      Well we have a couple of extremes here now don't we. First, someone climbs a route back in the day, doesn't tell anyone and then gets pissed when someone comes a long and places some bolts on it......and then.....the guy who wants to make his route very public and then gets ridiculed for it.....what's a dude supposed to do these days? Just climb it and submit it to the guide book authors I guess

      while your blog and posts makes some good points, I have a couple of questions:

      1. If you and I go and climb a big route and you climb the hard pitch should I get no credit what so ever?? It is unlikely that on a big route that all parties took the sharp end on each and every pitch. Should the dude who sent the hardest pitch only get credit? I think not.

      2 Are slide shows only for those who climb at a certain level? If the dude climbs a route and wants to have a national holiday named after him then let him fly at it. If you are not interested in the show......don't go. But what is the harm in letting someone put up a show so that the community can go and see what is going on? Maybe he will get laughed out of the room or maybe it will inspire someone to go do something cool or maybe both. Now don't get me wrong, I too think that the amount of press this thing is getting compared to some very impressive accomplishments is kinda funny but maybe that is the point.....if you do something and don't tell a single soul about it then don't be pissed when no one knows just how tough and cool you really are Now it is my opinion that those who climb for their own personal reasons and want nothing to do with recognition and media are climbing for the right reasons as opposed to those climbing for all the glory of the cover of Rock and Ice.

      3. Maybe I am wrong on his one but is the first multi pitch m11/12 in the rockies not notable?

      Anyway JD......I sent that piece of shit problem and I called it only took me two tries and I am fat as hell these days! I hope features and the mat are in and don't mind that I had to spin the sloper hold a little bit (the way it was didn't fit in with the character of the rest of the problem)

      All the best out there,

      Wade Graham[br]


      • #4
        Hey Wade!

        I think it breaks down like this: for modern sporty climbing (sport, sport mixed, bouldering etc) the strongest guy gets the cred - that is, the focus of the accomplishment is the guy/gal who climbs the hard part (and hopefully the rest of the route). Those that equip routes (though deserving of medals, promises of gold, etc) toil as facilitators to this process knowing that they played a role in the greater good. If I bolted an insane M14 in the Cineplex, but had no hope of sending it, then Raph comes along and squirts up it, I may report it but would leave my part out of it because it's inconsequential to the real news.

        If you are going to report an FA and FFA, you better be talking about a serious alpine route where aid was the only way possible the first time out (and yes - if we are halfway up a new route beside Andromeda Strain, and you are (un)lucky enough to get the crux, the ascent is shared, historically speaking. I'd owe you a beer I guess.)

        On the other hand, if you bolt a line with one or many pitches, and bring in a 'hired gun' to solve the pitches you do not have the skills or desire to do yourself, you set yourself up to relegate this glory to said ropegun (payback for their radness). It's part of building routes - hell I've had routes I've bolted stolen! by friends and I'm not clamoring to get into the guidebook. Perhaps there is a big distiction here - the FA party names could make it into a guidebook if it's multipitch (who reads the FA info in the back anyways?), but prolly not into the mags/web etc!

        So - perhaps a good learning lesson here - FFA is generally an obsolete term when it comes to pushing limits in sporty climbing. Reports to mags could indicate the team effort involved (no doubt this played a role)and the adventure shared (sounded epic). I would hesitate to throw this on my climbing resume as a "FA" (if I had a climbing CV!)as I would be merely holding the rope, which any 10-year old can be taught.

        And I think I could be wrong, but if you are going to brag about the cooler exploits of your friends (what are friends for?), make sure it's newsworthy (not to say TJSR is not). These days, newsworthy generally means pushing technical, physical, or metaphysical boundaries. To answer your last question, slideshows are a MUST for pros and punters alike. I'd actually love to see the TJSR show as I think this would be fun.

        Sorry for the ramble, trying to be respectful knowing others have differing views on this, not trying to stir the shit (sorta)


        • #5
          Wade, The CCC thing is separate from the TJSR - anyway thought it would help diffuse the angst about TJSR.

          As for my blog - it's my own views - i didn't link it to this site - at times they get a bit pissy, but hey, so do i.

          As for TJSR - another excellent FA by that old fricker Gadd - he's got skills and energy - this line's been waiting to get energy to bolt it and the other part of the team Brandon and Will M. had the energy - but they have not yet climbed it - this is not to say that they can't - but they do require a lot more skills to get it done. Even if the M12 pitch is M11 at the easiest - how many folks really can send M11 at the crags, little own, 300ft off the deck?

          In order to FA a route you do need to send the whole thing in one push - that's the code we climbers live by - you know that.

          If i piss off some people, well that's life, my friends often piss me off, and i them. Were all climbers and i still have not met a climber who has no ego!

          Back to your points:

          1. We would both get credit if you send the hard pitch, i follow it without falling, just like you, then we send the whole rig - no falls, swapping leads.

          2. My thoughts on this are yes, only for the pros, Why? Because we like the lure of the game. Who wants to see a slide show of a dude skiing off a 3ft cliff when the pro's are hucking 100ft cliffs in some rad part of the world that most will likely not get to.

          There you go - nice send on the C2+, whatever you need to send the rig ... jd