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The Jimmy Skid Rig M11/M12, WI5, 200m and some

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  • #31
    Originally posted by Brian Merry

    If it is I think FA would mean first ascent in this case due to the multi-discipline alpine nature of the climb.
    I hardly think this route can qualify as an "alpine" climb, Brian... It is an M-climb, sport-mixed climb, whatever, but an alpine climb? I think the "rules" to FA a sport route apply here, frankly. BP and WM equipped the route, WG deserves credit for the FA.

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    • #32
      I'm going to agree with Brians terminology.

      FA = First Ascent

      FFA = First Free Ascent

      To my way of thinking, if you were the first up a route, you got the FA. It doesn't matter if you aided it, hung on the rope, or dropped the tools and rockclimbed - if you got up it first, then you were the first to ascend regardless of style.

      On the other hand when done in good style, without falls or hanging, then you'd get the FFA.

      In the case of TJSR, WG sent the FFA but BMP and WM did the FA. Of course it should go without saying that sometimes the FA and FFA occur at the same time and then other styles can come into the picture such as onsight, ground up, naked (and solo as a result of the none naked belayer running away blinded).

      As for the hype/spray/media? I guess the guys did a good marketing job. Maybe they got some backlash for it but climbers are like other people - some seek the limelight, some avoid it. When it comes down to it, it all matters less than what beer you drink.

      Cheers
      .

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      • #33
        I thought for sure i'd be reading this thread all day...

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        • #34
          Back in the bygone day I wrote this climb up on here, the Jimmy Skid Rig. I was a tad naive and overblew the original description. I got a lot of heat for A) Saying the First Ascent was done by Will Meinen, Will Gadd and I despite Will Meinen not being there the day the route was climbed he had put in insane amounts of effort. B) Above where we had climbed ice rambled on but we did not climb it, I stupidly included that extra potential 30m or so in the route write up.

          A lengthy discussion went on about who should be included on an FA. I couldnt give a hoot, for me it was Will Gadd (Bad ass who actually sent it) Will Meinen (Motivation and aid climber galore) and I (media hyping blow things out of context drama queen). However, a lot of people said it should only be the one who red points the free line. I disagree, climbs are combined efforts constructed through sweat, toil, bitteness and ultimately glory.

          Will Gadd, Pat Delaney, John Freeman and Will Mayo just sent a mega rig in the Ghost. Look into it, looks wild. Pat and John had tried Jimmy Skid Rig at one point. After the first ascent we left ropes, trash and gear up there, a regretable move on my part, thankfully Pat and John trucked some out, still owe them a beer for that.

          Later Raphael climbed it and called it "Industrial" climbing. He shook his head at the drilled pockets on the route. The drilled pockets on the route were agreed upon in blank areas by all three of us, not just Will M and I. Despite some drilled pockets it is still M11. Raph sent the route for its only other ascnet that I know about. http://raphaelslawinski.blogspot.ca/...-climbing.html

          In an email to Rock and Ice Gadd said:

          "This was such a huge effort from Will, John, Pat and myself that we all agreed that the FA would be for all of us; who redpointed it first was irrelevant,"

          Case closed.

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          • #35
            Which begs the question of who appointed you to adjudicate my friend? Public debate is just that: public debate, quadrupley so for these internet forumy things.

            On to the last word,

            Bubba

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            • #36
              Case reopened.

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