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GSI shutting down

It is with regret that Gravsports Ice will be closing soon. Despite all of us here and many in the community being of the opinion that GSI is a better archiving system for information on ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies, this website will be shutting down.

Keeping the lights on and keeping conditions current no longer seems practical. We have tried making the forums more user friendly, and kept access to a vast array of beta and history contained on the website open to all. However low participation and increasing costs from both the website and hacker intrusions have lead us to this decision. Many thanks to Ian for past hosting costs. While the website will remain live for a short while you can expect it to disappear soon. We have talked of options to preserve the beta it contains however we offer no guarantees at this time.

We thank all our supporters, and everyone in the community for your past participation in GSI.
Regretfully
Will, Ian, and Grant.
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The Jimmy Skid Rig M11/M12, WI5, 200m and some

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  • The Jimmy Skid Rig M11/M12, WI5, 200m and some

    IT Went Like This::

    Jimmy Skid Rig M11, WI5, 200m

    FA: W Gadd, B Pullan, W Meinen 2009

    Pullan and Meinen rigged the route and Gadd climbed it.

    Gadd freed it on his 3rd day after adding the remaining bolts to the ice curtain, awesome!

    Approach: Up the drainage between Pigeon and McGillivry Mountains. Follow a faint trail in over boulders and up slope to base of climb. 2-4 hours depending on snow pack.

    Gear: Two 70m ropes. 20 quickdraws and standard ice rack.

    P1: M4,WI4, 60m, Climb up a thin smear to curtain, traverse loose ledge to corner, up corner past pin and bolts to right traverse to ice!

    P2: 5.5, 10m, Up into the cave traverse.

    P3 :M9 40m, Campus out of the cave and up wildly overhanging corner to belay under roof. Technical slab work out to a featured corner up to a questionable ledge.

    P4: M11 WI5 70m, Up the imposing, wild, overhanging wall with minimal features and none feet! Have to be there to believe it! Up the ice curtain to the belay cave behind pillar.

    P5: WI4 15m Up one of the two curtains to the top.

  • #2
    Good job, love the ingenius Hilti setup, you should Trademark that idea!

    This route does form every year, and is very visible from a certain small hillside before you enter Grotto Canyon, for condition checking.

    Now go do the same to that ugly orange scar of rock/canyon just right of Heart Creek parking lot. Come mid-April that thing seems to have a thin ice route forming always but only for a few weeks....

    Comment


    • #3
      Nice work indeed!

      Comment


      • #4
        I climbed this route in the forties with my Grandmother

        nice work boys!

        W
        Wade Graham[br]

        Comment


        • #5
          Jimmy Skid Rig!

          Slide show March 17 at Canmore Co Op

          Yep, St. Pattys Day, green beer and all!

          http://www.canmorecoop.ca/

          Presented By Pullan and Meinen

          Comment


          • #6
            Where is the coop? Cover charge?
            Brian Merry[br]Banff, AB[br]www.brianmerry.ca[br]brian@bmerryphotography.com[br]403-763-1114[br]

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            • #7
              Thanks to Brandon and Will M. for suckering me into the project with descriptions of perfect rock ("You could sport climb this stuff in summer, it's got perfect pockets, amazing stone!") and the "nearly done" status. It was all lies, but good ones.

              Somebody needs to go do a repeat--there's not a loose rock on the entire rig, the bolts are all in perfect places, and there's a perfectly coiled brand-new lead rope at the base! (that too would all be lies, but it is a super-fun route!).

              WG

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi

                Congrats all around. But I have to wonder why all the fanfare? This has to be the most heavily 'marketed' ascents I've seen in years, despite some pretty impressive other accomplishments. Submissions to all the mags, slideshows etc. etc.

                What's next - embroidered t-shirts (Jimmy Skid Rig 2009 Yeah! FA blah blah FFA blah blah)? Cross Canada Tour?

                I say all of this with tongue firmly in cheek, so try not to take offence,

                M

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                • #9
                  Marcus,

                  No offense taken! actually we are making a mini series as well.

                  Its a mega route that everyone should try, until the word gets out people wont know to go get on it. As well it points to the possibilities other route like this will get done.

                  I met a dude from Calgary yesterday who said thanks and says it is inspirational people are doing routes like this.

                  Mags are starving for news, the slide show is for people to see how ridiculous of a mission this was, and slide shows are fun!

                  Have a gooder.. come to the slideshow, we are selling t shirts!

                  Brandon

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Brandon,

                    I completely understand your excitement for the route, but did either you or your partner free the M8,M9 or M11/12 (yet to be clarified) pitches ? If not, how can you actually spray so much about it and tell everyone to "go get on it" Is there a bolt ladder for the 99.5% of ice climbers to skip the M11/12 pitches ? Also curious about the 100M+ climbing at the top of the route,looks like the thing ends at the top of the cliff, is this not the case, and although it makes the highlights less attractive for the "starving mags" can we combine pitches 2/3 & 7/8 to make this thing 7 pitches ? Congrats again on the effort but I have a feeling people aren't lining up to go do this thing with a pitch that seems somewhat drastically outside the scope of the rest of the route (the remained being what sounds like a really decent line..)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi

                      An interesting take on what I was alluding to earlier.

                      JD's blog on this topic

                      I think we need to be clear on who gets credit for what in modern (sport, sport mixed, trad etc) climbing - IF getting credit even really matters!!!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Will Meinen and myself are heading up this weekend to play on the route and finish the clean up.. all are invited and we will go over the details of the route. I hope poeple show up, we will have a fire (a camping stove while we boil water), some drinks..

                        We will meet in the car park off Hwy 1 just past Pigeon mountian saturday AM at about 7.

                        Until then, feel free to email me with anymore 'excellent' points as this isnt a discussion board!

                        bmpullan@gmail.com

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Wading in...

                          Those seem like pretty important points ie) is the FA M12 or A0

                          What do you mean this isn't a discussion board?

                          I would think that this type of heat is inevitable for the amount of spray flying.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            "I hope poeple show up, we will have a fire, some drinks.."

                            you are aware that this is a provincial wildland park area, and as such, rules and regulations apply, so be acreful with the fires/impact thing.

                            Lets keep our noses clean with the powers that be.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Touche!

                              The FA is M11/M12. It wasnt climbed to the top until it was freed.

                              Whats the discussion? About spraying? Media? FA's?

                              Im in!

                              Comment

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