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NEW ROUTE: THE MADHOUSE WI4+, 300M

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  • NEW ROUTE: THE MADHOUSE WI4+, 300M

    The Madhouse WI4+, 300m

    FA: Brandon Pullan, Will Meinen. Nov, 08.

    In the 3rd cirque of Mt. Rundle. This climb is a one of a kind gem, we have climbed 2 other routes in the cirque. Its thin. Feels very Alpiney!

    Gear: 12 screws, half stubbies, runners, a few pins.

    Approach: 3hrs. Park at Nordic Centre, take high trail until under drainage to 3rd cirque: slog up.

    Climb:

    Begin at base of frozen chimneys.

    P1: 60m, WI3 Climb small tiers of thin ice to alcove

    P2: 60m, 5.4 Traverse left and climb through notch, up to base of steep ice.

    P3: 70m, WI3 Climb steep curtain up to THIN smears, up to base of pillar.

    P4: 70m,WI4+ Up thin, narrow pillar through notch and up to fixed pin belay. WILD PITCH!

    P5: 20M, scramble up to large terrace and hike off to climbers right back down into bowl.

    Photo in the photo gallery, as well watch the Mountain Hardware Blogs for WIlls write up.

  • #2
    heres the link to Wills Mountain Hardware Sessions for some more fots.

    http://flickr.com/photos/hardwearses...7610624194795/

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