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The Road Less Traveled 60m,M4+, WI3-Ranger Creek

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  • The Road Less Traveled 60m,M4+, WI3-Ranger Creek

    Climbed a new route in Ranger Creek on Nov. 11 with Doug Scatcherd from Jasper and Sylvain Riopel from Edmonton.

    It lies about 20m left of Lone Ranger.

    Pitch 1: 35 meters, M4+. A left facing, left leaning corner that takes good cams (.3" to 3") and stoppers for about 20 meters to thin ice and eventually an ice filled gully. After 35 meters I made a belay off thin ice.

    Pitch 2: 25 meters of narrow ice, think enough for 13cm screws, leads to a slabby ledge and a crack with 2 fixed nuts as an anchor.

    Very enjoyable and a good intro to traditional mixed climbing...especially when there are many other parties on all the other routes. A 60 meter rappel gets you to the ground.

    Rack: set of nuts, cams to 3", and a few pins would be handy.

  • #2
    See photo of route at http://canadianalpinist.blogspot.com/

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    • #3
      Climbed it yesterday (saturday) with Paul M, before the new snow. Great time, but still challenging for a beginner with leashes and dual points.

      Rock is easily protectable. Carried but did not use pitons. Ice was thin for the 1st belay.

      Addition of some quick links would extend the life of the final anchor (cord directly tied to nuts).

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