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REHAB WALL (6 new routes) - Evan Thomas

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  • REHAB WALL (6 new routes) - Evan Thomas

    REHAB WALL

    After seeing the pics that J Wilcox posted (thanks!) we started lugging in loads. The cold weather slowed us down by chiling our drill batts and toes.. however we managed to still get some routes done. The trail in is great now and about 1.5-2 hours

    I hope this area sees much more development as there is room for another 5-8 great mixed lines up to 30m on featured rock with wild horizontal bands.All routes were developed by Brandon Pullan, Will Mienen and Danny O'Farrell in Jan 08. Why 'Rehab Wall; - Will is nursing a broken ankle and this wall proved to be great Rehabilitation

    The wall starts after Slurpee

    Rehab Wall

    Aromatherapy WI3+R 35m

    Climb the thin curtain to a small ledge. (bolt) Climb thin ribbon to trees.

    Fun & Fitness WI4 45m

    Many options to start. Climb great ice to upper steep wall. The wall is fatter every visit.

    Physio-Therapy M7, WI5, 50m FA: Will Meinen, B Pullan

    (NOTE: WE HAVE REMOVED SOME BOLTS BECAUSE OF BAD PLACEMENTS AND WILL REPLACE THEM FEB 2, FIXED ROPE TILL THEN)

    Climb the amazing featured rock using a variety of tricks. Past one roof, some ice then another bulge and some ice into thin ribbon, up the ribbon behind the hanging curtain and then throu the steep roof. Exposed and awesome!

    Acupuncture M4, WI4 20m

    We got one bolt in, battery died, then up thin runout ice (spectre) to a ledge, v thread or traverse left on loose ledge for 15m to anchor of Yoga Monster, feel free to add bolts or anchor, it needs it and we will do it eventually)

    The Following 2 climbs can be combined in a few different ways.

    The Treatment M5, WI4, 35m

    Climb right of largest drip up thin ledges onto ice and up to ledge, climb the upper smear above ledge and traverse left past bolt off of ledge(cruxy), FUN!

    Yoga Monster M5, WI4, 20m

    Climb past 4 bolts up good rock between drips and finish on left hand ice, bolted anchor.

    Its possible to walk off all routes to climbers right and off the first step of Slurpee.

    Green Monster

    Great route and getting even fatter then when FA did it. Now possible to do a WI3+, 40m line on the far left- 'Green Monster Arete.

    Im sure Ive left out some details.. Ive already seen about 10 parties in there!

    hope you like em!

    Gear: Physio has 15 bolts + screws so 20 QD's with some runners, two 60's to rap, stubbies for most of the ice.


  • #2
    Brandon, Will and Danny

    Congrats on several fine routes. When J and I saw that wall we knew there was tons of potential. Neither one of us is keen enough to bolt routes, so I am glad someone had the opportunity. Any photos? Funny, I know noticed from mid December to early January that Green Monster had grown.

    Looking forward to trying your new routes as well.

    Cheers boys.

    Kevin

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    • #3
      Indeed. Rehab or simply training in somewhat of a magical spot. Been out there the last two weekends and will be back. Thanks guys for your efforts.

      WD40 - pillar is still in fragile state. Snicy above the pillar and beyond. Similar conditions above dagger on Yoga Master and the Treatment. Green Monster still in fine condition and mostly unclimbed.

      If you're more of a looper and adventurer rather than a backtracker, there is an optional return that follows the river down to where the falls start. Gain the rock band to the right of the top of the first set of falls, follow steps up steeper terrain to the exit into the woods. Follow tracks through woods for 100m or so. You'll see tracks going straight and then some heading down (left). Left is shorter but requires either fancy footwork or a nice butt slide to descend last slope back to main trail.

      Great place.

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      • #4
        Really glad that this area is seeing traffic. Also looking forward to giving those mixed routes a go. Thanks to you three for putting them up!!

        With the M4 and M5 ratings I might actually be able to get up them too... ;-)

        JW

        Comment


        • #5
          Its been braught to my attention that one or more bolts on our route Yoga Monster has become loose and is shifting (the actual bolt not hanger). Not to sure why, perhaps the rock is very air pocketed under the surface(?) and a few people waiting the bolt shifted it loose (?), or maybe we just bolted it poorly but with over 500 bolts drilled between the lot of us and these the first loose ones Im gonna blame the rock. Since no one owns these routes feel free to add bolts or move bolts or adhesive them, go town! we will get in there when we can to fix it when we can.

          On another note, a buddy onsighted Physiotherapy and gave it M8+, WI5 with the dagger snapped off.

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