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Not Quite Twight - now an alpine route

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  • Not Quite Twight - now an alpine route

    Not Quite Twight, which is in the ice guidebook, is now an alpine route to the top of unnamed Peak 2680. As it was before, the route was unlikely to get much traffic, what with a 2 hour approach and only 2 pitches of ice. But now it's a worthwhile, moderate alpine route with some interesting routefinding. The WI4 pitch is really fat right now. Above the ice, we continued up easy mixed ground and snow to a pitch of M4R. Our line ascended slightly left of the left of two prominent caves near the top of the face, but there are many other options. The rock was quite solid but compact and crackless. Be careful of wind slabs as you approach the ridgeline. From the ridgeline, it's an easy scramble to the summit of Peak 2680, and an easy descent to the south and then back into the approach valley. 10 hours car to car. III M4R WI4. Ken Agar, Doug Fulford Nov 10, 2007

    Give me a call if you want good approach beta. Got photos but don't know how to post them to this site. 678-7431

  • #2

    To add images to a post, look for the link below that looks like the first attached image to this message. Under the heading "Post Options" from there click "File Manager" that will open a new window and you can "choose file" once you have the file chosen, click "add file" (you can do this up to 10 times per post) when you are done click "done adding files" that is really it.. You have now added pictures to your post.



    • #3
      Climbed the route with Scott & Colin Sunday Nov 16, 2014.

      Expect 2+ hour approach with minimal snow. The ice was formed, but the pillar was narrow with really aerated ice and little protection, but it's short. The approach ice is very casual and the pillar is only a few body length, then it eases off. Highly recommend soloing all the snow climbing, otherwise you're pulling lots of rope on easy ground with no pro. The mixed pitch is short lived, and felt like M3 to me. Tools not really needed for it, and it is a bit runout, but low consequence. Above the mixed pitch it's easy snow to the top. 2 short pitches of climbing, bring a 60m, or 50m single rope. The descent is in extreme avy terrain. One major snow slope that goes down to valley bottom. Be certain of snow depth and stability. A recommended alpine route for those seeking an easy/moderate alpine outing. Timing, timing, timing!!!

      10h30 round trip as a group of 3 with moderate pace. Thanks to Doug & Ken for this one!