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Hosers of Darkness (V, W5R/X M6+, 220m)

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  • Hosers of Darkness (V, W5R/X M6+, 220m)

    Hosers of Darkness (V, WI5R/X, M6+, 220m)

    FA: J. Mills, Brent Young ? Mar ?08

    This route can been seen from the road on the East face of an unnamed peak between Mt. Wilson and Mt. Cline on the David Thompson Highway. It goes up the obvious gash above the largest avalanche cone. It is an excellent route and highly recommended for those looking for something with an alpine feel.

    There is major avalanche, cornice, and rock fall hazard on this route. All 3 were encountered on the first attempt, despite conditions being quite good in the general area. Choose your day (or better yet, night) wisely and expect some spindrift.

    Gear:

    5-6 screws, mostly stubbies; 1 set cams to #3 Camalot, 1 set nuts, 6-8 assorted pins including KB?s, Spectre. Virtually all pro is in the rock.

    Approach:

    Park at Thompson Creek, 10 minutes east of the Banff Park boundary on the David Thompson Highway. Ski or snowshoe up the east side of the creek for about 1km until the creek forks, watch closely as this can be easy to miss. Follow the Left (West) fork for about 1 hour to the base of a large avalanche path on your left. The route is easily visible above this path.

    Route: The climb follows the obvious gully from bottom to top.

    P1: (WI3R, 60m) Up thin ice and steep snow to a fixed nut belay on the left at 60m.

    P2: (WI4R, 40m) A steep and thin start leads to easier but climbing. Somehow get a belay on the thin ice or rotten rock at a snow ledge.

    P3: (WI5R, 30m) Low angle detached ice leads to an 8 meter section of slightly overhanging rotten ice. Belay on the snow ledge above, with a rock anchor (fixed nut + pin) on the left.

    P4: (WI 5, M6+, 60m) A fantastic pitch. Pull through a couple body lengths of overhanging rock with good gear (including a fixed pin) onto the thin, broken curtain above. Wrestle in some rock gear above then continue up past a fixed pin to a belay at the end of the real climbing. Fixed nut.

    P5: (WI3, 30m) Romp up the final 30m of snow and rambly ice if you feel so inclined.

    Descent:

    Rap the route quickly, plan on leaving some nuts or pins behind to supplement the ones I left.




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