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[FA] Frigging with Gear (M5 100 meters)

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  • [FA] Frigging with Gear (M5 100 meters)

    Frigging with Gear (M5 100 meters)

    FA: Tyler Jones and Ian Welsted

    Date: Dec 2006

    Beta:

    Fun trad mixed climbing with a 45 minute approach.

    1st pitch: Grade 3 approach as for Dancing With Chaos

    2nd pitch: 40 meters; Dry tool to right of anemic drip 25 meters right of DWC, then left into groove up to 3 pin anchor

    3rd pitch: 60 meters Left from anchor then back right to groove (or straight up ice), follow to 5 meter pillar. We did this as one rope stretcher pitch, maybe better as 2.

    Rack:

    #4 is useful

    set of cams and nuts including RPs

    lots of pins

    Notes:

    NB Visiting climber figured the route should get an "R"

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