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Field area climbs 2019/2020

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  • Field area climbs 2019/2020

    Guinness Gully
    First plan was to see how the climbs between Carlsberg and Guinness looked (Heineken Hall, Labatt's Lane, or Wild Cougar) but extremely low cloud hid them from view. No cars parked for Guinness so we switched plans. There is almost no snow on the approach trail. Not sure if slippery scree or icy snow is worse.
    First pitch was somewhat narrow and wet so the choice of waterproof layers was a good start. The start of the first pitch is very thin and not well bonded so a very very delicate touch is essential. Above the start the ice was soft and easy but rock is often very close so work your thin ice technique. I left the 16cm screws at the base and didn't find anywhere I might have been able to place them. 10's are essential and 13's work in places. I had about half a rack of each size. Some stances I placed a screw on each half rope because I didn't feel the quality was so good for pro. Although the ice was nice and soft it was also hollow sounding much of the way up so you'll want some good head space for the lead.

    Second pitch was all chandelier. It wasn't well formed yet and didn't look protectable. My partner declined to lead it for me which was just as well seeing as I'd already rigged to descend.
    With another week of overnight freezes and the water feeding it, I'd be hopeful for better conditions next weekend but as early season goes, I've had both better and worse.

    Other observations:
    *One of our original objectives could almost be seen below the clouds as we left but not enough visibility to see what or how good.
    * Carlsberg was nowhere near as wide as usual yet and looks to have a hanging dagger in the right corner.
    * Pilsner doen't have a pillar yet.
    * Masseys looked to have a dagger connecting in the corner but the front isn't touching down and much of the second pitch is either thin as hell or not yet formed.
    *Twisted and besides look formed although the initial approach ice is looking less stellar. Can those easier pitches be avoided with a walk around?
    Last edited by Grant P; 14-Oct-2019, 05:42 pm.

  • #2
    First pic is the start of P1 - very delicate.
    Second pic is looking up the first pitch while my partner raps - more of a shell than it looks.


    • #3

      Guinness Gully now reported as being in good shape all the way.
      Other routes have been climbed and conditions have improved.
      Silk Tassel has been climbed.

      More snow has arrived in Field and been wind transported. Don't forget to check the avi reports now.