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Field to Kicking Horse Canyon early 2019

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  • Field to Kicking Horse Canyon early 2019

    We climbed Essondale Right on 2/2/2019. The 2nd pitch is fat right now. The whole climb was in good condition and even the topout wasn't too spicy. Several good v-threads or tree rap stations. There was some old avy debris at the base of the first ice step. It looked like the snow from the rocks all came off and swept the small gully below pitch 1.

    Riverview was in and looked good as did Pretty Nuts. There was a good boot pack behind the avalanche wall along the highway so you don't have to worry about getting hit by a truck while you walk.
    Last edited by Grant P; 12-May-2019, 08:30 am.

  • #2
    Sun 24-Mar-2019

    A number of gullies had avi debris from last weeks warm spell. Some of the climbs/gullies had dirty smears indicating they slid to ground in places. The back road below Mt Dennis was actually closed this morning and when we checked to see if avi control was planned we were told it was because debris was on the road. They cleared that and opened the road while we climbed but there were 5 vehicles at the gate before we left and another at the highway end.

    *Saw some folks on Carlsberg so "climbable" but unknown conditions.
    *Guinness Gully was wet. First pitch had water running or dripping each side of the climb and on the left side of the first pitch. It was also quite fat and nice ice, easy swings. Second pitch was also good quality ice but also wet. Anticipating the third pitch to also be wet we opted to descend. Didn't help that my softshell pants were soaked but I at least had a goretex jacket. Highly suggest full goretex and extra gloves to better enjoy the climb right now. A few overnight freezes would help too. Also suggest cramponing up before walking up the gully. You have the choice of the icy approach trail or the icy avi debris.
    *On Mt Stephen Masseys, and Cool Spring looked ok from the highway. The upper pitches of Superbock were getting late day sun so maybe expect some sun affected ice.
    *On Mt Field the bottom of Bubble Wrap Blues had melted/fallen off. Silk Tassel was still there but there looked like a fracture so I'd consider it suspect and given the sunny aspect, probably some rot.
    *KH canyon climbs have been reported as in poor or worse condition from a couple sources. I don't know if that would also apply to the north facing routes.