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Mythologic (WI6 140m) - North Okanagan - Mythologic: 1/17/2016

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  • Mythologic (WI6 140m) - North Okanagan - Mythologic: 1/17/2016

    Matt Maddaloni and I climbed Mythologic on January 17, 2016 and found it to be in very good condition. Gary W and I had packed in the trail and a rope the previous weekend, snow up to thigh deep on the upper bench (take snowshoes). Trail is well packed in now unless we get more snow.

    We climbed it in four pitches that went at about WI4, WI4+, WI6, WI5+ and was varied and interesting. Route was dry to start and became more drippy as the day progressed. The last few weeks had been overcast, near 0C during the day with good overnight recovery leading to well-consolidated pillars.

    P1 - A short 10m step to the base of the main pillar and onto the main flow. A few good belay cave options left and right.

    P2- A short pillar, we climbed from the left to right behind a small pillar into the cave out right then back up left behind the main flow to a comfortable belay cave. Some parties combine P1/ P2 and climb Mytho in 3 pitches.

    P3 - Step onto the 30+ m pillar, best ice right right in the middle. During previous ascents there has been a good mushroom/ ledge in the middle to break it up, not so much this year. A few more metres at the top to another comfortable cave.

    P4 - A final 20m pillar into a rotten groove and then better ice above - the final 20m can get baked out fairly quickly and can be climbed left or right into the trees.

    Descent - Three raps, first from the trees and two thread raps.

    Note: it's been warm and wet in the valley (up to 6C) since this ascent. It's typically a few degrees colder up there however expect it has broken down somewhat in the last week. I'll try and provide an update pic this weekend. It may be worth holding off now until temps improve a bit.

  • #2
    Here's a pic of Mythologic from today (January 30, 2016) - good that there's still some standing ice despite two weeks of warm, wet and luckily overcast weather. Worth watching if we get a couple weeks of colder weather.


    • #3
      This picture was taken from Cambelldale Road yesterday (February 6) and shows some in-filling from last Saturday. The trail is well packed in now.


      • #4
        Took this pic of Mythologic today - brushed out and ribboned in a new trail from the Enderby Cliff's trail through the timber to the clearing about a month ago. Same approach beta revision as above from Jan 22, 2016:


        • #5
          A pic from yesterday - about 10cm of snow on the ground, -4C at the base although expect it got above 0C for a few hours today. A party tried it a few days ago and found:

          "Despite the -12C temps overnight, there was an enormous amount of tension in the ice: the lower WI4 pillar settled 3 times while I was leading it. Made the decision to go down pretty quick and easy after trying the next pitch with all the hang-fire overhead. Probably slightly harder than the grade, but the route is all there. Features look hard but climbable, just not when it's fracturing."

          I expect the bit of warm weather will help consolidate and settle the ice, setting it up nicely for the next round of colder weather.


          • #6
            A quick update on Mytho, hiked in today on a brushed and flagged donkey trail, about 1:40 hours to the base. Snow shoes are not required at this time.

            The route saw ascents on December 20 and 22 and reported, "Goretex recommended, climbing well, pretty good screws and a couple steep bits." A party backed off on December 28 after climbing two pitches, reporting "warm temps, sun and soaking wet daggers."

            *Sorry for the sideways pics, can't figure out how to flip them ...


            • #7
              I find resizing the pics to around 1 meg displays them rightside up. Although I suppose your pics technically are "right side" up :crazy: