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Three Valley Gap - Turkey Chute: 11/30/2014

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  • Three Valley Gap - Turkey Chute: 11/30/2014

    Climbed Turkey Chute this morning with Fred Giroux. We found pretty good conditions; some good 16cm screws and thin in other places. The recent storm snow had melted and refrozen after having some small avalanches come down the chute to make for some good snice climbing in many places. I'm going to write a description below for the way we climbed it before I forget, because I had trouble finding a good one and therefore pieced together beta from a few different places:

    Approach:

    Walk a hundred meters or so West from the Three Valley Gap Hotel, cross the road, then start climbing the obvious avalanche gully. We continued unroped up some easy snice to a bolted anchor on the left where the ice steepens.

    Pitch 1 (WI4- approx. 40m):

    Starting at the bolted anchor previously mentioned on the left, climb some grade 3 ice for about 20m to where it steepens, then continue for about another 20m up steeper ice to a bolted anchor on the left (located underneath an overhang where the ice dog legs right up a ramp/chimney).

    Pitch 2 (WI3 approx. 30m):

    Climb the ramp/chimney leading right to where the angle eases off considerably. Continue past an old bolted anchor on the left (the hangers have been flattened by avalanches) to a second bolted anchor on the left where the ice steepens again.

    Pitch 3 (WI3 approx. 30m):

    Climb the ice above the anchor to another bolted anchor (rusty bolts) on the left where the angle eases off again.

    Pitch 4 (WI2 70m):

    Ramble up very low angle ice (almost walking for most of it) to where the ice steepens and belay from an ice anchor on the left.

    Pitch 5 (WI3 70m):

    Continue up rambly ice with a couple of short steeper sections to a tree belay on the left with tat.
    www.instagram.com/gearysguiding/[br]www.facebook.com/gearysguiding

  • #2
    Photo is Turkey Chute this morning, showing the first 3 pitches as described.
    www.instagram.com/gearysguiding/[br]www.facebook.com/gearysguiding

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    • #3
      Hi geary. Is Turkey Chute south facing or north facing? Trying to assess odds of it being around if we make the drive there next week. Thanks.

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      • #4
        It's North facing, but it's supposed to be really warm the next little while so the aspect isn't going to matter.
        www.instagram.com/gearysguiding/[br]www.facebook.com/gearysguiding

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        • #5
          We stopped at Three Valley Gap this morning in hopes of climbing Turkey Chute. We didn't climb it. It looked thin and we'll into the process of thawing out. If you intend to climb it, expect sections of mixed.

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          • #6
            So you're saying someone thawed the Turkey for Christmas. ..!
            .

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            • #7
              Has anyone been through Three Valley Gap recently? Any updates on the climbs in that area?

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              • #8
                Hi Marten,

                It's been way too warm for ice climbing lately in Revy. I haven't been through 3 Valley Gap for a while, but everything at Greely Ck and Waterworld is super wet, mostly detached, and some routes have fallen apart with flowing water. I suspect after a short cold spell it will be OK if the ice doesn't fall down in the meantime.

                Alex
                www.instagram.com/gearysguiding/[br]www.facebook.com/gearysguiding

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                • #9
                  Hey Alex,

                  Thanks for the quick reply! I'm meeting a friend from the coast for some alpinism around Rogers Pass, so looks like skiing it is! We'll keep an eye on the temps and maybe hit Golden up for some climbing!

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                  • #10
                    three valley gap is currently three valley waterfall there is some ice you just have to climb 2 to 3 pitches to reach it. No ice anywhere near the road. Don't bother heading that way with out some serious cold it is done for the season.

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