Headed into Mt Assiniboine through the BC approach on Saturday afternoon. Great weather and clear skies produced excellent snowy conditions on the ridge. We started up the ridge about 4 am under clear skies and a full moon. Not sure exactly what the temps were but definately a bit above freezing at the hut elevation. Snow free up to where the face starts to get steeper and the hands on climbing begins. Used crampons a few hundred metres above where the face steepens to the top. Great fast climbing on snow and ice. Some sections of bare ice but mostly good steps. Both the red and grey bands were climbed easily on mostly snow and ice. Some big cornices and mushrooms on the summit ridgeline. Pretty wintery up there but with cool temps some great snow, ice, and easy mixed climbing!

We descended the West face which was very snowy up high. Lots of wet avalanches off the summit snowfield on warmer days but we had cool temps and some clouds which helped a lot. We descended to where the Lunette/Assiniboine routes join with 3 - 30m rappels in teh upper gully and tagged Lunette as well. About 1 - 1.25 hours from here return trip. The loose gully described has ice in it which made for fun climbing but this will probably melt out soon. The descent took us a while. Lots of loose rock and interesting down climbing but if you stay on the right path is relatively straight forward.

The descent definately took longer than expected. Near the bottom there are some very impressive new avalanche destruction zones (This spring maybe?) which has wiped out some of hte trail. Trend right down the surf board scree plates at the bottom and into the forest. There is flagging tape. Then through the forest into another impressive new avy path. Towards the bottom on the right side there is more flagging tape and eventually a pretty decent trail. Finding this trail would be difficult at night....