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GSI shutting down

It is with regret that Gravsports Ice will be closing soon. Despite all of us here and many in the community being of the opinion that GSI is a better archiving system for information on ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies, this website will be shutting down.

Keeping the lights on and keeping conditions current no longer seems practical. We have tried making the forums more user friendly, and kept access to a vast array of beta and history contained on the website open to all. However low participation and increasing costs from both the website and hacker intrusions have lead us to this decision. Many thanks to Ian for past hosting costs. While the website will remain live for a short while you can expect it to disappear soon. We have talked of options to preserve the beta it contains however we offer no guarantees at this time.

We thank all our supporters, and everyone in the community for your past participation in GSI.
Regretfully
Will, Ian, and Grant.
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Evan Thomas

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  • Evan Thomas

    Chantilly, thin top and bottom but probably could be climbed at a more difficult grade than WI2, probably would involve some classy dirt sticks and slush kicks

    Snowline, bouldered a couple body lengths, good tool placements or hooks could be established with gentle tapping but there did not look like any significant or solid blobs of ice for screws until way up

    Moonlight, climable but felt committing (the bitter cold probably didn't help), was wet so should keep forming nicely, dirt and slush for a few moves below the trees

    2 Low For Zero has some ice but never seems to sprout splitter cracks

    Did not venture further

  • #2
    went as far as green monster. Creek is mostly frozen although there are some holes to watch for with deep pools beneath.

    chantilly looks better than last post stated. Combo falls is thinly formed.Exit combo is formed enough to find a line to climb but those are both short easy routes.

    Here are pic's of the rest: (check summitpost if you havent' heard of these routes)

    1:moonlight,snowline,2low40

    2:green monster i think

    3:wd40

    4:b2

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    • #3
      Yup, photo 2 is Green Monster. WD40 is looking good, better now than the last two seasons.

      the goods...

      http://www.summitpost.org/evan-thomas-creek/604902

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      • #4
        Up Moonlight on Friday. Climbed the right side, which felt pretty commiting for WI4. The bottom is hooked out, but not the top. Climbing on the left side higher up would yield somewhat easier climbing, and possibly better ice. There was some bad ice in a few spots on the climb. Seemed steeper than this time last year.

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        • #5
          Climbed Moonlight and Snowline on Sunday with Pierre. Both were in grade 4 condition (ie. wait until they are fat or picked out if you want easier conditions). 2 Low for Zero was not in.

          Snowline was thin and you had to work for pro. Three pro options of note; 1) obscure pin about 8m up in rock on right side (about 1m left of ice), 2) small ice pocket about 15m up that can be slung for solid pro, and 3) clip the old 1/4" bolted anchor about 25m up. After that you can find 10cm to 13cm ice screw placements and finish above the tree with 60m ropes (barely).

          Two hazards to note - 1) do not clip the old frozen tat about 50m up on left side... it doesn't appear to be secured to anything. 2) Beware of a large TV size block that is teetering loose on left side about 40m up. I would suggest that if you are there alone then the 2nd should knock it loose... but be sure to leave any packs/gear at base well to the side of the routes or they will be crushed.

          As noted above, Moonlight was picked out to about 40m, then not a trace of previous climbers on the steeper curtain. Small 1 person cave on right side if you desire (another party rapped from there on v-thread), or 2 v-threads on top of the curtain. We chose a delicate line right of the cave up into the dripping water. Pro anywhere on the curtain was questionable (lots of air pockets from unconsolodated chandeliers).

          Side note... we had some interesting conversation with 2 guys from Edmonton that were training for an Alaska (Mt Hunter) trip. It was suggested that some alpine or multi-pitch may be more comparable than Moonlight. But hey, I've never been to Alaska so what do I know! Anybody out there have other insight? Either way, good luck boys.




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          • #6
            Was up there Sunday Dec. 5th. Moonlight looks thin and picked out below but took 16cm screws no problem. Up top it was as others have mentioned, little or no trace of previous climbers. No good screws on the curtain so I deeked right to the cave then delicately picked my way up just left of the drip line.

            I am with maury on this. Moonlight seemed a bit committing for a WI4.

            PS- no other climbers on that day.

            -Dave

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            • #7
              Climbed Moonlight on Saturday, Dec 11th.

              First pitch had lots of hooks with brittle ice. Second pitch had various ice conditions, from brittle, platey, airy, to wet and plasticy: lots of fun!

              Watch for thin ice while going over the creek...

              Comment


              • #8
                Climbed Moonlight yesterday, 14 Dec. Both ML and SL were in great shape, but first pitch of ML was pretty wet. Belayed from the cave on climbers right. Found a small V-Thread already there, but put in another solid one with 22 cm ice screw and clipped them together with a quick-link - solid

                Second pitch was fun going out of the cave, some dinner plates on brittle ice over the top of the pillar, then easy ground to the tree at the top

                Snow Line looked thin but all there with 10 cm screws for the first 15 to 20 metres...
                Mobile: 808-280-3341[br]Email: info@IntoAdventure.com

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                • #9
                  Climbed moonlight yesterday,

                  no real changes to previous posts. Snowline & 2 Low for 0 both in similar condition to previous posts.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Should probably have stayed home yesterday but I hate to let a cough or cold win. Instead we hiked into the area beyond the usual climbs. I wrote "beyond" on the back of the vehicle hoping others would figure it out although seeing as the three vehicles already parked had nothing visible it was probably redundant - writing your intended route is a nice courtesy BTW.

                    The climbs all seem to have bulked out from the pics posted above. B3 looked bigger with decent ice. WD40 had fattened a little but wasn't too different to the pics. It looked to have a cave halfway up on the right side if you wanted to split it into two pitches. Slurpee looked ok from the creek but after scrambling into the bowl, I could see a lot of chandelier. The lower part at least would likely require lots of clearing to get screws but at least the angle was kicked back from vertical. Above the pillar, the remainder of the climb looked green and solid from the little I could see. Green Monster had chandeliering too and some wet lines. It's bulked out now, fully formed and is much fatter and wider than the couple of pillars and daggers seen in the pic above. The easiest line looked to be hard to get screws but stemming the groove offered no hands rests to dig for reasonable screws. The ice becomes less featured as you get higher so less digging for screws. Watch for fracturing, a couple good chunks came down. The Rehab Wall had all sorts of ice drips on it but I don't have the topo so I can't be more helpful sorry.

                    Approach. A good trail is set up the creek to the first climbs which avoids ice bridges mostly. Nice going whoever set it. Beyond Moonlight the trail is obvious but the tight creek necessitates crossing some frozen creek. There's not much snow covering the ice so watch you don't wind up on your arse. As you come to the tight canyon, you'll see the falls are frozen but the plunge pool is wide open so watch for the tracks breaking right for the up and over. As you get up above the cliffs there are occasional tracks breaking left. I suspect someone was trying to find a descent but resist the urge - follow the tracks going higher. Eventually it levels out a little, goes through some really tight bush, then drops into a drainage. The trail heads up the drainage a short way and up the bank, goes a little further into a more open drainage. Looking down the drainage you'll see the eroded far side of the main creek. The trail drops steeply back into trees and eventually you exit at the creek again. Beware - If you hit the wrong drainage, you could get cliffed out or find the top of one of the climbs. You might have followed walk out tracks from climbers topping out a climb. If you followed the correct tracks down to the creek then going upstream will lead you to Slurpee, Rehab, and Green Monster; going downstream will bring you to WD40 and B3 in those orders. Approach times are somewhere in the 2 hour range.
                    .

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                    • #11
                      Busted up moonlit yesterday. Snowline way hooked to the top, but moonlit was only the bottom 30m. Nice and fat, but a tad brittle from the cold weather. The top was chandeliery but fun. The path was tromped out nicely by some thoughtful snowshoe wearing types, so the way in and out was quick and dirty. All round a good time.

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                      • #12
                        Went to ETC Saturday morning. Trail in was a slog. The storm snow has covered the trail and the dip that looks like a trail isn't always the hard packed boot trail. However if you miss the hard pack, you'll usually find some nice deep post holes. Breaking trail and postholing was taking a while and after 2.5 hours we'd only reached Combo Falls. I figured I'd had enough of breaking trail so we just headed to that climb rather than the slog over the hill. Another couple climbers came by shortly after and continued upstream. They returned maybe 10 minutes later so perhaps the up and over trail isn't any better. Trail is better established now but the snow bridges over the creek are starting to disappear.

                        Working downstream, Combo Falls is fairly buried at the base. There was even an avalanche happened in the last day or two. It came down from climbers right and scoured the right side of the climb. The whole of the south facing slope was cleared out to ground. From here Combo makes a left turn to two smallish steps of beautiful blue ice. It hadn't slid, faced north-ish, had some accumulation, but the lower slopes seemed relatively stable. Nevertheless we decided against continuing.

                        Moonlight was seeing sun into the early afternoon. It's getting fairly sun effected now. The middle pitch looked rather wet on the middle and right.

                        Snowline - not in. Bare rock for the first pitch, second pitch looks ready to delaminate and fall. Last pitch looked to have sun rot too.

                        2L4Z - not in. Don't think it ever came in this winter.

                        Chantilly Falls. In fat, good ice, some lacy stuff near the top.
                        .

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