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Climbs in Evan Thomas Creek 2019-20

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  • Climbs in Evan Thomas Creek 2019-20

    Sunday 10-Nov-2019

    After the bridge there are some logs to cross the creek again. I don't know how the bushwhack would be to avoid the bridge and second creek crossing. After that a reasonable trail follows the left bank quite a ways with a couple spots where using the frozen creek makes it easier. On the way in we crossed the creek to avoid what looked like a big deadfall choke but another party found a reasonable way around by heading deeper into the trees. I'd recommend their tracks. There are a couple spots where ice bridges are tenuous but generally staying left including a little side hilling is your best route. Once you get past Chantilly Falls and almost to Moonlight you have one creek crossing left that is ice bridged, then up the right bank and through trees to reach Moonlight. Didn't go further upstream so can't report on the trail beyond ML.

    Climb - Moonlight
    Moonlight is narrower than its normal full width but generally well formed. Good ice to the "cave" bolted anchor which is left of the ice and not really a cave yet. Second pitch is a wide pillar but has pretty new ice and some chandeliered featured ice. Climbs well but the steep part just above the cave takes a little work to protect. Last pitch has two options, slightly easier on the left and protects well. A steep pillar on the right was very wet and I was glad I avoided it when I saw it on rappel. While the pillar may climb ok, once above it you move into a rock groove that looked to be very thin ice up to the top out. Perhaps a move left might be possible to gain better ice but not easy I'd guess. If it was possible to climb the thin ice I think it would be unprotectable until it thickens up.

    Other climbs
    Snowline has apparently been climbed but probably took a hit in that short warm spell. I heard of tied off screws. A party behind us opted to wait for us rather than try it.
    Chantilly Falls looked poorly formed. I'd say not in yet and needs more time.

  • #2
    Sunday 26-Jan-2020

    Approach is packed snow. Avoid walking on the xc ski tracks. Heading up the creek there is a boot pack track and a snowmobile track to Chantilly. KPS were doing a rescue practice there. Thanks for having our backs.

    Chantilly Falls - It was a great climb for my partner to do his first multi pitch lead. Likewise for the party ahead of us.
    First pitch is in good shape with fresh ice on the left or easy ice on the right. Pro was good.
    Second pitch isn't as filled out as I'd expect for this point in the season. Despite the upper part of the second pitch lot looking very steep from the belay, it does get somewhat steep. Still fun though. The right side of the upper part was quite chandeliered and fresh ice.

    For years the big tree on the right as you reach the top had a rap station on it. Currently there is zero tat on the tree. From this tree a 30m rap will get you to the bolted rap station. Be aware that heading left to the tree up the snow gulley requires a 35m rap to reach the bolted station.


    • #3
      Saturday 15-Feb-2020

      Approach is good and well packed. Use of the

      *Chantilly had fresh blue ice at the start of the first pitch. Second pitch didn't look so bulked out from a few weeks back.
      *Moonlight looked well formed.
      *Snowline had ice but thin to start with.
      *B3 looked wet but good shape.
      *Fun & Fitness looked fat enough to climb and tracks indicate it has been. Some wet looking ice at the top with chandelier on the final steep section.
      *Rehab Wall has a new route (see new routes forum for details on Self Medication M7) and another project underway. Ice seems a little more sparse on the mixed climbs than some years.
      *Green Monster is in good shape and popular. Some wet lines but pro can be found.