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Amadeus

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  • Amadeus

    Saturday 2-Nov-2019

    Approach: We followed the trail to Yellow Wall then slogged up the drainage. Coming down we followed a different way. On the climbers right of the drainage is a series of little game trails and switchbacks that seemed less stumble prone than the rubbly drainage. It could get hard to identify the switchbacks after some snow but coming down today was easy enough to follow for the most part. From the base of the climb we followed tracks and cairns across the scree into the trees on climbers right of the drainage (south side of drainage) and pretty much stayed that side the whole way down. Just an option I wasn't aware of last time I went up there.

    Climb: The large dagger isn't touching down. It would be nice if it did and a cold snap doesn't snap it. Right of that there is a line of ice that looks reasonably bonded to the rock, would probably be climbable, but protecting it could be questionable. Instead John chose to follow the standard drytool line from the corner, to the traverse. Once on the ice he found the left side quite wet, including where it leads to the belay so he chose to belay right of the upper ice and on the big ledge.
    I lead there to the top. Trying to avoid the shower I followed the steeper right side. A little dryer but stout and eventually the natural line moves you left into the shower. You'll most certainly want good waterproof layers. All three of us got a soaking. The climb is generally in reasonable shape with a mix of steep, caulifowery, or brand new chandelier if you stray too far left. Pro was decent although some sections took some work and it took a mix of 10, 13, and 16's.

    Kinda pumpy in current conditions as our third team member found out for his first day of Canadian ice
    .
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