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Kananaskis Rumours

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  • Kananaskis Rumours


    We started off shortly after dawn checking out Parallel Falls from the road but it looked like it wasn't all the way down. We opted to move on rather than have a long walk for a climb not in. Turns out we were wrong because someone went in later and reported it as touching down, however they didn't climb it because they had an encounter with a very large grizzly near the base. I'd suggest packing bear spray and avi gear if you want to take a hike because there are definitely pockets of accumulated snow above the climb and definitely a bear in the area.

    Next we stopped at Ranger Creek. There were two KPS vehicles already there and we could see them near the base of the climb. As we watched we were scoping the snow slopes over Lone Ranger and Chalice. Not insignificant amounts. As we watched the rangers climb we were taking note of increasing clouds and snowfall. Graupel was falling and although not huge accumulation it was also contrary to the forecast we read for Burstall Mountain which said the snow would occur in the afternoon. Not wishing to expose ourselves to that later snowfall on graupel we chose to once again move along. A subsequent post on the KPS facebook page confirmed our suspicions about Lone Ranger and Chalice and reiterated the need for avi gear in that area beyond this weekend. The climbs did look well formed from the road though.

    Next we headed to King Creek and there is a post on that area. To summarize - mostly not in yet.

    Other roadside observations.
    * The area south of Ranger Creek has increasing amounts of snow so climbs like Dr Evil and First Blood would require careful avi considerations.
    * Cobra Verde looked relatively snow free but also pretty ice free.
    * There was an ice line visible high on Mount Blane that we assumed could be Raph's route Ulalume looking in good shape and very prominent.
    * Upper pitches of Bridge tooFar were not visible so very likely not in.
    * Kid Falls was not in. Some ice starting but mainly wet rock.
    * Saddams Insane not in.
    * Kidd Bowl was thin ice at best, more likely not in.
    * Solid Cold not in
    * Amadeus looked in but might have some hollow ice from second hand reports.

  • #2
    Yup, Ranger Creek climbs are all in... here's some pics from Oct 20th.

    Was a busy day, as anyone would expect early season... 5 cars in parking lot, line-ups for R&D and Lone Ranger. Didn't see anyone get on Chalice.

    We climbed Lone Ranger and it felt stiff for the guidebook WI3 grade, more like a WI4... or maybe just because it was my first lead of the season?!? Mix of chandeliered and wet ice on the upper steep curtain.

    IMG_5690 - Lone Ranger.jpgIMG_5689.jpgIMG_5691 - R&D.jpg

    I was surprised to see this thin yellow cord (4mm?) being used as abalakov at the top of Lone Ranger, so i backed it up with some 6mm cord (purple). I assume the 4mm held the previous person who rapped off because I didn't see them lying at the base!!
    IMG_5683 - thin abalakov.jpg
    Attached Files


    • #3
      23rd 24th Nov weekend

      *Tasting Fear is being climbed.
      *Bridge Too Far sounds like it might need a little more time to consolidate.
      *Kidd Falls was there but not heard of anyone going up there yet.
      *Saddams Insane had a party up there most of Saturday so presumably its climbable.
      *Wedge Smear is getting lots of parties so probably in decent shape.
      *Whiteman Falls has a wet approach and open pools. Climb looks to be formed but unclear as to if it can be reached at this time.

      Sinatra Falls - Approach is good with little snow on the trail and on the bushwhack. The climb itself is in although thin in sections. 16s are not much use for most of the route with even 13s hitting rock unless you're real careful. Take 10s to make yourself happier. There wasn't much snow accumulated around the climb although way high above the cliffs there was some transport visible.
      Last edited by Grant P; 25-Nov-2019, 12:36 am.