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Evan Thomas Creek climbs

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  • Evan Thomas Creek climbs

    Climbed the first pitch of Moonlight on November 10, 2018.

    Wet and chandelier in spots. Bring stubbies.

    V-Thread left on the right side in the column. Not a great belay but leaps and bound better than the bolted shower belay on the left.

    Column was wet and looked chandelier as well as the very top looked spicy.

    We came down pretty soaking wet but fun times.

    Hike the left side of the creek before you hit the bridge. Creak is fully running.

    The \"Old\" French Guy

  • #2
    Went to climb Moonlight, 2 - 3 parties already climbing, so walked to Upper Creek. From a distance Moonlight looked good, Snowline, etc. to the right looked thin (mixed route).

    Creek is flowing. Where the canyon narrows and access via the ledge on the left to the Upper Walls, the lack of ice forced us to take the right-hand approach up the drainage and follow the game trail. Rap on to ledge, then again down WD40 to get to canyon floor. A light dusting of snow made travel slippery.

    WD40 was a little wet.

    B2 looked ok (see pic).

    Willing to take a higher risk of getting wet on the way out, we took the ledge/cable route... again the dusting of snow made travel tricky even with crampons on snow covered rock/tuff upstream of the ledge (another party decide to climb up and presumably bushwack, too slippery). Nonetheless, with crampons on made it to the cable and ledge and proceed to Combo Exit.

    Combo Exit 1st pitch was thin ice and flowing... but stayed to the climbers left and found something to climb (right side was about 1" thick ice and flowing water) (see pic). The remaining pitches a few rock moves mixed with ice

    , but all easy enough we solo'd the rest and exited to the trail.


    • #3
      Sun 23-Dec-2018

      Approach tracks located good and stick to the trees a chunk of the way meaning less collapsed ice bridges later in the season.

      Climbed Moonlight as a party of three. Ice is in good shape and well traveled. Mostly dry with good pro. Had to hang out the entrance of the cave to get the two seconds into the cave, getting cozy in there. Great traverse out the cave and up good ice, also with good pro but quite steep.

      Snowline looked thin. Probably climbable but even 10cm's may be hard to place. Gets fatter on the upper section but with some possible wet ice.

      Caution: a huge hanging dagger is barely touched down between the two climbs. If it fell it would make for literally tons of debris so belaying between the two climbs would be right below the firing line. Move to the sides.


      • #4
        Sat 9-Mar-2019

        So much for the pre Christmas boot pack in the trees that avoided ice bridges. Someones getting wet feet this spring :crazy: because the track now goes right up the creek. Good right now,

        Did a little anchor work and solo on Chantilly. Here's a pic of the second pitch. A nice steep line on the left, awesome groove right of that although drippy, wet ice right of that all soft n nice, and a lower angle romp on the right side. The climb is big and fat and takes all the screws you might throw at it.

        A new rap station on the left below the upper pitch.