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Saddam's Insane

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  • Saddam's Insane

    It was +6c in the parking this morning at ~9am. We decided to pass.


    My Ice Climbing Photography

  • #2
    Spent several hours not quite climbing this yesterday with Ingrid. A few minor circuses/mistakes made for a 4 hour approach. The thought of a long descent coupled with a "just hollow enough to slow you down" sound coming from the upper pitches convinced us to hit the road instead of climbing the upper pitch and a half (which of course includes the crux pitch). A few points for anyone looking to give it a try.

    -Go up the right side of the main drainage, not the left/center.

    -At the top of the main drainage are three gullies on the right with number two and three looking more probable. We went up gully number three which was super fun but involved a lot of WI2 climbing with a few short WI3 steps. Gully number two may or may not be much faster (comments?).

    -At the point where the gullies (presumably) converge is the thin smear at the bottom of Tim's pic above. I soloed up the rock to the right (a bit sketch) because the ice looked terrible. Ingrid seconded up the bad ice on top rope.

    -Some more WI2 brings you to the base (this section not visible from road)

    -A pitch of thin WI3 followed by a half pitch of WI4 (which ends with the thin WI3 visible in Tim's pic brought us to our high point.

    -The half pitches of WI4 (below and above our high point) sounded a bit hollow but semed reasonable with some care.

    -The half pitch of WI4 above looked fine and as best I could tell from ~30m below, the WI5 pitch (pillar) looked fine.

    Good luck.

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