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Mount McGillivray - NW Ridge: 07/06/2014

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  • Mount McGillivray - NW Ridge: 07/06/2014

    Climbed the NW ridge of Mt McGillivray yesterday. I couldn't find any route descriptions anywhere so thought I'd post it in case anyone else is interested. There seem to be lots of variations on the various scramble routes available but nothing on the actual NW ridge.

    P1 - 30m - 5.6 : Climb the face for about 10m to a ledge where the wall steepens. Traverse left a couple of meters then directly up to a large ledge system. Reasonable rock, reasonable gear.

    Scramble along the ridge 50m to where it steepens again.

    P2 - 40m - 5.5 : Head up the face on great rock to the right of a free standing pillar. No gear. At about 10m up you'll realise you're climbing a flake. Traverse the top of this to the right and an easy groove leads up to the next big ledge. Little to no gear. Head left along the ledge to the base of the wall and a couple of great cracks for an anchor.

    P3 - 50m - 5.7 : The rock was better than expected and gear was plentiful on this pitch. Head directly up to a small roof where you can get some gear in. Climb through the roof, trending left. Follow the line of least resistance, staying close to the ridge line, until another large ledge is reached and good anchor options can be found.

    (P4) : We climbed another 50m roped above the top of P3 because we weren't sure of the rock quality or steepness. The rock is crap but it's an easy scramble and the rope is not needed.

    From this point it's an easy and fun saunter along the sometimes exposed ridge to the summit.

    Descent: we descended the scramble route, which was far less enjoyable than the climb. Make sure you know where the scramble route goes before starting down!
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