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Saddam's Insane

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  • Saddam's Insane

    It's in, albeit in tricky condition. Approach to the final slope has several sets of tracks in and out (from Raph and Ian's new route) and the final slope sucks, but tracks are now in there too. Take the right hand gully of the two obvious options if you can't see our tracks as some ice and rock would make the left one more time consuming.

    Avy hazard seemed like a non-issue yesterday, although that could quickly change. No need to bring stubbies. Yellows and blues will do fine. 3 shorter tiers of up to ~4+ ice get you to the final pitch. The crux pitch consisted of a ~10m pillar cracked and separated in a couple spots and some funky 'chimney' climbing between the main pillar and a thinner freestanding pillar beside it. The back of the chimney feature took descent screws. A short exciting traverse out right at the top of the chimney feature puts you on steep ice, with good sticks and moderate screws for another 10-15m.

    We used no threads which should still be good, if you can find them!