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Opal Creek (Whiteman Falls area)

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  • Opal Creek (Whiteman Falls area)

    Hi all,

    The Whiteman/Redman zone has been a work area the past few days. Fellow guide Patrick Delaney cleaned all the fixed gear off Redman Soars a few days ago. The many rusting pitons are now gone. One fixed nut remains iced in place. The crack takes good small gear, cams and nuts. It has been awhile since this route has seen true traditional ascents. Patrick has replaced the top anchor on Redman Soars w ring bolts. The mid-station bolts still remain as is. Bring a good trad rack for climbing this route in the future.

    Today, Patrick and Magda climbed a line just left of the arete left of Redman Soars. It kind of looks like a lightning bolt crack. Has it been top roped in the past, probably. Pat is calling it "Cowboys and Chikitas". It is about 25m long. It takes small gear up to #1 Camalot, RPs, birdbeak, KBs. There is a double ring anchor at the top, 3m below the traverse on Redman Jams. It may be possible to rappel with a single rope from the top of Redman Soars to this anchor (rope stretcher w a 60m), then down to the ground.

    Patrick also replaced the top anchor of Whiteman Falls today. A new ring bolt and hanger w the exiting maillon.

    The approach remains in good conditions. Line-up for this route before the road closes for the season and the humping ensues.

    Whiteman Falls is Route #37 in Icelines - Select Waterfalls of the Canadian Rockies.

    Brent Peters

    Alpine Guide

    www.yamnuska.com

    www.peakstratagem.com

    www.facebook.com/icelinescanadianrockies

  • #2
    Redman's had a good sized block that had some movement to it last weekend, it's ~3m below the midway fixed protection cluster. Hopefully it's well frozen in place now but I'd suggest some caution with the thing for belayer and climber, particularly when it gets warm.

    Thanks to Pat for fixing up the anchors in the area!

    Scott McKay

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    • #3
      just returned from Opal creek, 2 friends took Redman soars while myself and another swapped leads on Whiteman falls. The ice is getting thin on Redman's where you step off the rock onto it could be gone soon? I took the crux pitch of Whiteman's from the right side, cave with 2 v-threads both in good shape. Overhanging mushrooms to start to the ice improved higher up the pitch and into the runnel. our 60m ropes dangled about 8m from the ground from the station at the top. Windy but great day. 2 used snowshoes myself and my partner walked same time.

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      • #4
        Made the long walk back in there today for my first time (fairly easy going on the road). Most new snow had sloughed off the walls and slopes in the approach canyon making for some hip wading, but there's a good track in there now (until the new snow ruins it). Pools visible in a couple spots. The approach ice isn't in great shape, but still doable for the time being.

        Wasn't feeling the continuous hollow shell and heavy excavation work on P1 so I bailed there. Looked awesome on the second pitch! We'll be back next year fo sho...maybe with XC Skis.


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        • #5
          Went in to scope things out today. All of the pools are covered on approach. Water is spurting out all over the lower approach ice, but it is possible to avoid being soaked by keeping left. About a 40m rappel is necessary from the station above the approach ice to reach dry, solid ground.

          Whiteman Falls appears to be in grade 6 conditions, with overhanging mushrooms and chandeliered features typical of both pitches.

          The ice seam on the top of the first pitch of Redman Soars is very narrow and thin...I gently tapped at the 2 inch thick ice flow and it easily broke down to the rock, so for the second time in a week, I got scared away due to a lack of ice and bailed there. Fun to that point though, with a satisfying amount of good gear!

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          • #6
            Is this the view of "cowboys and chikitas"?


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            • #7
              I think you started on Cowboys and traversed back onto Redman Jams, Chris. Cowboys... follows the thin cracks 2m right of your first 2 pieces of gear (on the purple rope). It basically stays just left of the aerate. Here's Patrick on it last season. I think he put a bolt anchor on it at the top. Rodman Jams traverses across about 3m above to join Redman Soars.

              Brent

              PeakStratagem - Teaching Success


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