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The Drip at the Centre of the Universe

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  • The Drip at the Centre of the Universe

    Headed up to The Drip at the Centre of the Universe with Nathaniel Boucher on Friday November 1, 2013. The weather forecast was promising for a nice day. There was intermittent moderate to heavy snow for about an hour, and then the weather was back on schedule. The approach was very dry. We travelled on snow for the last 300m or so of approach, most of what was remnants of a decent size slide that came off the climb during the last hot spell.

    We climbed 155m of the route. Getting to this point required a couple moves without tools, holding onto the backside of a weird ice/snow bulge to try to access any good ice behind or above. I managed to get an angle piton, and it would have been possible to hammer in a nut to be better protected for the next section, however that next section was 100% detached from the rock and easily sheared off for as high as I could reach. The only alternative would be to dry-tool for about 15 feet on the right to easier snow/ice above.

    The next pitch, which I believe is the crux pitch unless I'm wrong, looked to be WI 4-4+. I can see it forming steeper with more ice, but not right now. That pitched looked good from below, but might have bad ice.

    The ice we climbed was thin, very aerated, run out and up to WI3+. The tools need sharpening, and the body got a good early season workout.!

    Unfinished business for another year,

    Happy climbing,