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King Creek - Nov 1

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  • King Creek - Nov 1

    Went for a great day on easy ice out at King Creek on November 1. One of the main flows was frozen enough to give a 35m line at a WI3 (maybe.. might even have been a 2+). Good area to teach in as we had a novice climber with us. The line took 16cm screws well, but took a keen eye on knowing where to place them. THe top out was a little tricky as there is no ice for the last 3m to the tree. Just scramble and paw your way up once the ice ends.

    Tree has 5 slings/cord around it with a rap ring around all 5 pieces. We used it and it was fine. All pieces looked in good condition

    On another note - alot of DRY rock still to be had at King Creek. With the warmer temps this weekend and next week, might be a good idea to bring out the rubber.

    King Creek main ice flow. Lead on 16cm screws and it was good climbing until after the top buldge.

    Also climbed this little guy to increase the difficulty level a bit. About 8m of good ice. Got a shower on this one though... // Tree on top right is main anchor point for the main flow.


  • #2
    The tree is dead. The bolted anchor on the right is a better choice and can be used to rap. It's located on the vertical rock and if I remember, consists of a pair of ring bolts.


    • #3
      Good to know about the tree. Next group up there should be cutting that rap station down. The cord on there seemed pretty new - certainly still a popular place to anchor by the looks of it.


      • #4
        Although it wouldn't be a bad idea to remove the cord from the dead tree, I would advise against cutting down tree's (even standing dead) within the boundaries of a Provincial Park.


        • #5
          Saturday 10th-Nov.

          Picked a buddy up at the airport and left Calgary after noon. Went to King Creek and joined the several other people there.

          Magic touch looked to be filling in nicely, rock gear needed for the traverse at the top of the first pitch to the anchor. The lefthand variation was coming along too but both were on the thin side.

          Main flow - we soloed it, anchor is chains to the right and a little lower than the dead tree. Didn't see any tat on the tree. Nate then led a very thin and wet corner to the right of the main flow. Screws were in solid ice but short pillars so might not be solid. Very thinly protected at best. Top had a bolted anchor.

          Curtain/Cave was thin and poorly formed. Not in/worth it.

          Gulley climb saw multiple ascents but thin and wet.


          • #6
            King creek is in great shape still. spent the day climbing the mixed lines.

            +3 at noon today in the canyon.



            • #7
              Was at King Creek yesterday 10 April. Still lots of good ice.
              My Ice Climbing Photography


              • #8
                Was in there today, not nearly as much ice as last year according to the above pictures. I suppose the main flow could be climbed if you were desperate, but it really needs another week. The middle flow, is coming along but now has the creek running directly below it, so there wouldn't be anywhere to stand. The gully has very little ice in it right now. Access is pretty good, we followed tracks in most of the way and it lead us around most of the new log jams with a minimum of crawling and wading.