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Nigel Creek climbs.

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  • Nigel Creek climbs.

    Sunday 1-Dec-2019

    Headed to Brival Veil and added a bolted station to provide an alternate to rapping from a protected White Bark Pine at the top. This tree is located climbers left as you top out the second pitch. A previous party had removed the tat from the tree instead using trees on the right side and suggested installation of a fixed anchor.
    The new station is on the rock face on climbers right near the top out. It is two bolts and chain on a rap ring.
    I apologize for missing wrench and was unable to tighten the quick links on the chain beyond finger tight. If anyone cares to take a small adjustable wrench to fully tighten them it would be appreciated.

    PLEASE REFRAIN FROM USING THE WHITE BARK PINE AS A RAP TREE ANYMORE.

    Approach - the switchbacks are in good shape and not icy.
    Ice in the creek has a few inches of snow covering it which gets you wondering how thick the ice is and how deep the water is 😱
    There is a small waterfall step to downclimb as you go downstream. We found it easier on the left (east) side as going downstream. It looked thin ice on the right.

    *Bridal Veil Falls. In nice shape. Some snice on the first cone. A little splashy on the right side but avoidable as you climb the first pitch.
    Second pitch climbed nicely too. Reasonable pro throughout.
    The new bolted station on climbers right at the top of the second pitch will allow two 60m ropes to reach the flat area above the first pitch. If you have a single rope the bolted station on climbers left halfway down the second pitch might need new cord. The bolted station above the first pitch gets you down without issues with two 60s.

    *Panther Falls. Not in. Upper half looks to be a thin shell with high volume water visible behind. Lower half is barely formed and fractured on the left. The high volume of water pours out of a tube and free falls to the ground. Gonna be a while before this climb is in.

    *Cineplex climbs. They have bolts and rock. Probably good.

    *Downstream of BVF are a couple of flows. One is about 20ft with questionable ice to walk on at the base. Looked thin and water depth unknown. Instead we went slightly downstream to another longer flow. The first half was a mix of ice steps and snow wallowing. Upper half was better ice although thin in places. I stopped at a tree at the end of the 60m ropes and belayed. Above that looked to be just low angle rambling so we rapped down on cord we placed. No previous signs of passage or old rap stations.
    I would like to know what the name of this climb is or if anyone has done it before. Its not a fantastic climb by any means but it makes a good combo with BVF or to climb while waiting for a party to finish on BVF.

    Avalanche conditions
    There is definitely a sizable bowl feeds into the drainage above BVF. Even though the bulletin was low.low.low we took avi gear. Also there didnt look to be a lot of avi damage to vegetation around the base. I have no doubts a large avi from the bowl would run down the route but can anyone add context to how often this happens?
    FYI currently the cold is affecting the snow in the area. As per the bulletin it is getting faceted and has a sugary composition.
    .
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