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GSI shutting down

It is with regret that Gravsports Ice will be closing soon. Despite all of us here and many in the community being of the opinion that GSI is a better archiving system for information on ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies, this website will be shutting down.

Keeping the lights on and keeping conditions current no longer seems practical. We have tried making the forums more user friendly, and kept access to a vast array of beta and history contained on the website open to all. However low participation and increasing costs from both the website and hacker intrusions have lead us to this decision. Many thanks to Ian for past hosting costs. While the website will remain live for a short while you can expect it to disappear soon. We have talked of options to preserve the beta it contains however we offer no guarantees at this time.

We thank all our supporters, and everyone in the community for your past participation in GSI.
Regretfully
Will, Ian, and Grant.
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Tax Evasion 80m WI5

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  • Tax Evasion 80m WI5

    Climbed Tax Evasion with Rob Denson on January 23, 2016. Easy approach conditions due to recent strong winds and minimal snow with snowshoes to go up final snow gully, which I would recommend. Although South facing, the ice was dry, blue and not sun effect. We encountered extremely hard & brittle ice which made for a challenging ascent on reasonable protection. The climbing is steeper than it appears. Great position amongst beautifully cleaved slabs and amazing scenery. Go on a sunny day to reap full benefits. 7.5km distance (mostly packed ski track), 312m elevation gain. A recommended climb.







    Happy climbing,

    Maury

  • #2
    Hi Maury,

    Thanks for your post! Looks like it was a great day!

    Can you comment as to the overhead hazard of this climb?

    Thanks for your help,

    Jacob

    Comment


    • #3
      Maury stopped climbing and now lives up in the frozen north. I'll let him know you had a question but perhaps someone else might have an answer for you.

      Looking in the app, its listed as class 2 terrain but some of those app classifications need revision.
      .

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey Jacob,

        The area sees lots of wind and sun. Not much snow when we were there and terrain not very steep above. See picture below. I would think it would be a good choice when conditions are bad. We observed no avy debris while we were there, and I suspect it would only avalanche late in the season is years with significant snow accumulations. You will be awed by the steep ice and blank rock face to your right, and there's a second pitch above, WI3. That steep brittle pitch brings back memories of my front bail breaking off, leaving me in a very unbalanced position a few meters above my last screw.

        Waining Soulful and Waxing Soulful, and the other easy climbs we established in a closer drainage, however, would be in the way of a freight train avalanche in bad conditions, so don't be tempted by those big beautiful blue pillars when conditions are anything but ideal!

        Enjoy a rarely climbed piece of ice, you may even be rewarded with the first ascent of the season. Cheers, Maury


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        • #5
          Maury,

          Thank you very much for the additional information and photo!

          Grant, thanks for your help and passing along the question!

          Jacob

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          • #6
            Had a great weekend climbing Tax Evasion and the first couple pitches of Pine Crest. Unfortunately the 3rd pitch of pine crest was not fully formed.

            Ice on tax evasion and pine crest was sun affected creating an eggshell layer that made for an extra challenge. Still in fantastic shape though.

            Skin track to these climbs and the glacier is now in!

            Jacob

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            • #7
              Hi Jacob, did you take any pictures of the climbs in this area. I am interested in what has formed up this year. I climbed ice in this area with Maury before he became a fisherman

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              • #8
                Hey Rob,

                Sorry, I didn't receive any notice that someone had replied to the post.

                Silver Lining was not in at the time.

                We climbed the first 2 pitches of Pine Crest, but the 3rd pitch was not in.

                Waxing Soulful was in, although there was quite the avy hazard above it when we were there.

                Hope that is helpful, although I presume the south facing climbs are starting to become sun affected now.

                Jacob

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