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VOTB 2019

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  • VOTB 2019

    Sun 30-Dec-2018

    The ice maze being challenging seems to be reducing the number of people heading to the north Ghost a little. We had the VOTB to ourselves. We only went as far as Yellow Bird and opted to run laps rather than heading further.

    White Bird would require drytooling to connect the ice. No dagger.

    Dead Bird has ice the whole way but the first half was very thin and likely not taking screws. Second half looked better but could be thin for pro.

    Yellow Bird was filled out nicely. Lower ice was ok although not fully bulked out yet.

    Upper ice was steep and pretty good. Right side was wet and some dripping elsewhere but not too bad. I decided to use the waterproof layers but you wouldn't get soaked on the left. Middle left had a bunch of new chandelier anx middle right had some mushrooms. Left line was good. Good climbing and good pro. Top of the climb started getting wet and soft in the afternoon. Some dinnerplating in spots.

    Eagle - heard it had been climbed and good to go but didnt see it myself.
    .

  • #2
    Sat 19-Jan-2019

    Decided to go take a closer look at the ice west of VOTB and visible as you approach GBU. We now believe it to be Cuckoo as it matches the description although at around 30m, not the route length, or its W2 grade - definitely steeper than W2. A couple of blobs of ice to the right would suggest a shorter steeper route if formed but contrary to the guidebook it would not seem to form every year.

    Cuckoo had some dry brittle ice with dinner plates but it also had minor sun effects on the sun facing aspects. Lower few meters were thin.

    We approached Cuckoo via VOTB to Albatross, then wander through the forest to the high cliff band. There is a drainage to not drop down into, rather contour around and up, over a broad rib then dropping down the ridge. We crossed the summer scramble/hike trail probably over a snow obscured section. Remember that trail comes up a bench below the cliff band where the climbs are located. If you have a GPS and waypoint/reference from the book you might find it helpful.

    Albatross was in reasonable shape and predictably with this weeks cold snap, had dinner plates. I also found 10's and 13's welcome to have but I also managed to place a couple 16's too. The small step to get into Albatross was mildly spicy with not too much ice and a little mixed tooling.

    Also saw Seagull and Eagle being climbed, and heard Yellow Bird had an ascent.

    Look for a line of stepping stones and small logs to cross the river to get to the VOTB.
    .

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