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Beowulf 2018-19

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  • Beowulf 2018-19

    Sun 2-Dec-2018

    Was heading into Beowulf when I learned from someone that there was an 8ft open section shortly after the first pitch. Decided to still go do Beowulf anyway because the first pitch was good.

    The approach involves getting across the river and open water and most of the approach is more rocky than icy so far.

    First pitch will bulk out more but is in good fun shape currently. Probably a tad easier than regular because of rest spots. The nature of the climbing is somewhat blobby and some chandelier, but for the most part it protects ok. It gets a little more tricky to protect at the top where the ice necks down to a narrow runnel. Delicate climbing is required through the last few metres to avoid knocking the ice away.

    A massive block of ice on the halfway ledge catches most falling ice right now making belayers at the base a little less subject to ice fall.

    I was glad to have a tall partner to reach the chains at that halfway ledge. The top out on the halfway ledge is rock and open water and those chains are out of reach for a shortarse like me for the rappel. Also at the belay at the top of the first pitch there was signs of a foot having broken through the ice with some new ice forming. Through a hole it looked to be at least knee deep and the ice looked on the thin side. I wasn't inspired to walk on it and go looking for an open section so we rapped and ran an extra lap on the first pitch.
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  • #2
    Beowulf is in good shape now


    Director Ghost Access - http://climbersaccess.ab.ca[br]Publisher - http://MountainMoxie.com[br]Owner - http://51North.com Digital Marketing Agency

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    • #3
      Had a fun day bouncing through the north ghost. Wanted to get to Fang and Fist but only made it as far as Beowulf. Lots of fresh snow during last week and seems like fair amount of 4x4 traffic but we were still spinning our wheels a lot even with chains. Sun was making that climb very wet but easy sticks for the tools. We stopped counting how many times we were walking and plunging our feet in the water. Doesn't look good for much more of an ice season.

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      • #4

        Sat 30-Mar-2019

        About done without some good freezing.
        We were the second party to bail this morning. First step is heavily snowconed. Second step was pretty wet and splashy. First party tried the right side and didn't think it worth it. I tried the left side and while lower angle it was wetter than the right. The splashing has made huge unconsolidated mushrooms and no sign of good ice to place any screws.

        With the north ghost track only open one more day my guess is done for the season.
        .

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