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What not to aim for!

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  • What not to aim for!

    First off I'm going to say that March is a great month for ice climbing. Temps are milder, days are longer, routes mostly have good bootpacks, swings are a wee bit softer, and beers left in the car don't freeze. Of course as we move into April some climbs start to suffer and fail. Some are bright and blue, and white stuff can come hurtling down on you. Where to go? Go seek, but you might want to give a couple routes a miss.

    Last weekend in Devils Gap I noticed the bottom of Sunshine had fallen off leaving wet rock. Malignant was still all there, condition unknown. Wanda was in great shape. Given that Aquarius was in poor shape a month ago its probably safe to assume it isn't any better now and probably melted/gone in the middle.

    Thursday on a drive to Banff, quick glances at The Professor Falls showed blue ice. Cascade looked like you'd have to bypass some of the lower ice, and the pitch leading through the notch looked ugly at the least. Neither did there look to be much avi debris so its still loaded. Its neibour Rogans Gully was thin on the first pitch this season and has now melted out on the first pitch.

    Lots still left to climb though, see the conditions forums. Post up whatever you see is gone to save some poor soul a wasted walk.
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  • #2
    Climbs in the north ghost that get sun are taking a hit. (likely elsewhere too).

    GBU right - snowconed and possible delam.

    GBU middle - hanging ice has fallen and the rest looked like it might too.

    GBU left - all there but sun affected.

    Indifferent - may have melted some in the middle and slender. Wet possible delam at the edges. Not really in.

    Angel Eyes - fallen.

    Unforgiven - white and possibly missing the start. May be possible to scramble rock but I couldn't be bothered to walk over to see closer. Would probably consider it not good.

    THOS - still being climbed and ok.
    .

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