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Arterial Spurt

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  • Arterial Spurt

    Sat 10-Nov-2018

    Aproached via the creek then quickly onto the trail leading up the left side of the big gash. Once the climb came into view we were unsure if we traversed left down into the drainage or went high and round. Rather than risk ending up bushwhacking or getting lost we approached via the drainage directly to the climb. Approach was around 2 hours.

    From the road we saw snow in the bowl so opted to take avi gear but once we got closer we were much happier with conditions. It actually looked like less snow than initially thought. We took transceivers on the route but left shovels at the base. Between the creek bed and the base there was a sizable snow slope but between it being lower angle and well settled we were happy with conditions. There was however a thin slab (1-2cm) on top of a hard crust, and the snow patches you cross en route were deeper likely from spindrift. I would consider any new snowfall to make being in the area rather more questionable though. The app lists the climb as class 1 terrain however around where the drainage levels out there are signs of large avalanches ripping trees to matchsticks. New snow on that hard crust will undoubtedly form a slab.

    Climb itself was in reasonable shape with mostly dry ice, signs of running water or wet ice in only a couple spots. We took pins but the climbing was mostly protected with screws and pins were only used to add to belays. My rack was mostly 10cm and 13cm with a couple 16cm and you'll want those stubbies. I placed a couple of 16's but the ice is thin in sections or has a shell that longer screws will hit a void. There may have been more fixed pro but the only stuff we saw was a pin/bolt rap station midway up the middle pitch, and a single bolt high on the middle pitch. All those hangers were bent over and could bear being replaced.

    Three of us went and each got a lead, did the route in three 60m pitches. Raps from the top were on a stout "bush" that was backed up to another, to which we added new tat. Lower we used no-threads and the fixed rap station.
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  • #2
    Someone followed approach beta from the book so to clarify the approach for future seekers - Park in the first lot on the right. Pick up the Trans Canada Trail along the parking's south edge and head west. In a very short distance the trail hits the drainage coming down from the huge gash. Turn and head up the drainage for maybe 5 minutes, looking for a trail on the left bank (east side). (with a possible cairn). This trail is moderately defined and leads up the left side of the drainage towards the huge gash. It switches back through some scrambly cliff bands at one point, and braids occasionally, but reconnects. High up it turns right and crosses a side gully, then traverses right somewhat level before once again gaining a little ground as you reach the main drainage. The climb will come into view around this point and shortly after you must decide whether to traverse left and down into the drainage to follow the creek to the climb, or follow the trail hoping it goes high and traverses back around into the bowl. We opted for the sure direction which with our track beat in isn't as bad as initially feared.

    For anyone who is familiar with the rock route Gobi65, the approach is shared until you reach the drainage bottom then instead of right into the trees, go left up the creek.

    >>Gobi65 beta on TABVAR<<
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