GSI shutting down

It is with regret that Gravsports Ice will be closing soon. Despite all of us here and many in the community being of the opinion that GSI is a better archiving system for information on ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies, this website will be shutting down.

Keeping the lights on and keeping conditions current no longer seems practical. We have tried making the forums more user friendly, and kept access to a vast array of beta and history contained on the website open to all. However low participation and increasing costs from both the website and hacker intrusions have lead us to this decision. Many thanks to Ian for past hosting costs. While the website will remain live for a short while you can expect it to disappear soon. We have talked of options to preserve the beta it contains however we offer no guarantees at this time.

We thank all our supporters, and everyone in the community for your past participation in GSI.
Will, Ian, and Grant.
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Rumours 2018-2019

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  • Rumours 2018-2019


    Twisted Sister was climbed. Posthole approach, thick but some chandelier.

    Nemesis formed to the ground observed from a distance.

    Amadeus formed to the ground. First time I've seen this but no word on the actual ice conditions.

    The Oracle. Rarely forms but there now.

    The Professor Falls is not good yet.

    Ten Years After is formed, condition unknown.

    Trophy Wall has ice forming this year.

  • #2
    Amadeus was formed this past Saturday Oct 6 and probably climbable in R or X conditions.It looked like it woukd take a few 13 and 16 halfway up with big runouts below and above that. Bailed when crampons broke starting above the ramp so didn't climb to the top. Avalanche debris from the previous storm slid 300m down the approach gully.


    • #3

      Water Hole and Irish Mist were wet smears.

      Sacre Bleu looked to have quite a bit of ice.

      Trophy Wall thinned during the warm stuff but seems to have more ice again.

      Mount Lougheed had visible ice from the TransCanada.

      Little Bobby Onsight looked fat.

      Lots of hard ice up Storm Creek and being climbed.


      • #4
        Walked up Cougar Canyon Nov 12 to take a look at Ghoster Coaster, Appears to be coming along. Ice is fattening up nicely but still a little thin in places. Did not climb the route, electing to let it develop more. Also cleaned up a massive amount of tat piled up at the bottom.


        • #5
          Sat 5-Jan-2019

          Update to Ghoster Coaster.

          Very little snow despite the big storm the other side of Banff. Mostly a rock hopping approach.

          Climb is well formed all the way. No snow on the route so the flat ice was getting wet and hard to keep ropes dry. Some wet ice to climb but dry options too. Not too brittle or even hero in places and good screws. We had two groups approach at the same time so climbed as two parties of three working together and it all worked great. A third party arrived after and followed up the route.

          Nice conditions and worth the trip right now.

          EDIT: why do I keep seeing the same questions on FB? ANS: Because FB sucks at finding info from even a week before.

          A search of GSI will pull up this thread with the answers.

          Route pics, FA link, approach beta, and avi potential - from Feb-2013


          • #6
            Sat 12-Jan-2019

            Mount Cory and Edith

            If you're wondering if there's ice between Cory Pass trail and Mount Norquay above Hwy. 1 (on the cliff bands)... went exploring on slippery slopes and wildlife trails for about 6 km and found nothing.

            So climbed ice in the gully between Mount Cory and Edith (I don't think these routes are named?). It's about 250 m elevation above the Fireside Road Trail (you can see the ice from Hwy 1). With the little snow we have, its a slippery scree slog to the ice. WI4 and WI2 ice, 1st pitch 15 m, 2nd pitch about 45 m... then its rock.

            It's tough on gear... new Arc' Beta SV bibs, etc. have some new hole in them (sharp rocks... btw, based on this climb I'd say the new Arc'teryx SV Goretex may be less durable than their older AR Goretex). Also if you're into Geocaching there's an ATC at the top of the 2nd pitch somewhere.

            1st Pitch:

            FYI, was on Water Hole and Irish Mist earlier in the week... warm wind has thinned out the upper pitch... with more warm wind on the weekend, won't be surprised if it is now a M4 instead of WI3.


            • #7
              Jonah. A text I got had me looking at this post again. Second look at the pic had me wondering if it was The Little Gem. Do you have a zoomed out oic or would the description match your approach?


              • #8
                Hey Grant, this is the general area, 51?10'47.9"N 115?38'58.6"W

                Here's comparison of Little Gem and this Route, and from Google Maps you can see the snow/ice. Original I was looking for Gunfighter to the east, but ended up here due to time.


                • #9
                  So I plugged those coordinates into Google maps and used Streetview and saw the pic you have at the bottom of your post. I thought this cliff was roughly where the three climbs Rock On & Off, The Gunfighter, and Radioactive Beagle were. Dave Peabody recently posted a pic calling it Rock On & Off.

                  I've seen ice in a couple spots on that cliff but mostly the sun melts them or snow hides them I'd guess, which makes it harder to get a good fix on what's visible. Maybe the additional pic might help you figure them out. Your bigger pic of The Little Gem makes it quite obvious that's not the same as the ice you're enquiring about.


                  • #10
                    Ya I thought it could be one of those mixed routes, but I thought they had bolts, I couldn't find any bolts on this one (but nor where they needed). There was some other ice up there to the West, Peabody's pics looks like it could be one of those climbs. I'll need to go back and get more pics and do some more scouting to the west... I wish Sean Isaac's book had a better description of those Gunfighter and Rock On & Off climbs (or a lat and long).

                    On a side note, I had Will Gadd's app, I used the navigate feature, it didn't show anything close by, although I think that app doesn't navigate properly or the lat and longs are wrong on these mixed climbs off Fireside Road.

                    I agree, that whole south face gets cooked so things melt out quick and there's several gullies... easy to get confused which one you're in once you're up there. Ha ha... also need to watch the light dusting of snow up there... lots of ice underneath... it could make for quite a ride on the slip an slide.

                    Thanks for the info.


                    • #11
                      Sat 23-Feb-2019

                      Johnson Canyon.

                      Johnson Canyon upper falls in decent condition. A couple of options for ropes on pillars but note that a couple of pillars have collapsed and still some hanging ice around. Not exactly a shortage of tourons trotting around under them either. Does anyone else get tired of politely letting them know how close to being in serious danger they are?


                      • #12
                        My first day ice climbing was at JC back in the winter of 92/93, think we went in there around Feb '93. The pillar was fat as & we had the place to ourselves. From my memory the pillar felt like we were the first ones to climb it that year. Stubai straight shafts, hand made leashes & Lowe Footfangs. No punters wandering about all the broken chunks of ice.


                        • #13
                          Sun 24-Feb-2019


                          Sounds like construction is occurring on the Haffner parking area but parking at Marble and walking across the road leads to a well packed trail.

                          There are a couple of fallen trees causing obstruction across the trail. If someone took a saw it'd make it nicer.

                          The ice in the lefthand corner looked wet and had new ice although as it extends right it was less of a curtain, more of an overhang. Didn't look too closely but it might make the mixed climbs difficult too around Boyd Mystery.

                          Mixed routes around Shagadelic and Half a Gronk looked to have nice ice at the transition for the ACC clinic happening on them. The steep ice piller right of these was well formed higher although low down was narrow and had fractures making some delicate treatment necessary to keep the whole pillar supported.

                          Further right and before Swank, the usual easy ice flow wasn't fully touching down making some bURLy moves getting to the upper ice.