Climbed Patterson’s East Ridge on Aug 26 with Malcolm Sangster. This route has been on the list for a long time, and it did not disappoint. The positions are amazing and the climbing is varied and fun. See Dave Jones Rockies West and old posts here for beta.

The route is currently in great shape. The approach couloir is good snow for the bottom 2/3 which was quite quick cramping up, then we moved right onto the rock. The upper steps are dry and were warm when in the sun. The rock is surprising good in places and unsurprisingly bad in others. We took cams 0.4-3 with doubles of .75 and 1, nuts and a few pitons, 12 alpine draws. We used pretty much all the cams, especially the doubles and did not place any pins. Above the steps we were able to bypass all but one of the snow sections on dry rock - although if I did it again I would put on the crampons and go on the snow to speed things up. We were 9 hours up, soloing the bottom 1000m to the glacier then pitching out the 5.6-5.7 and simuclimbing the rest.

We took 60m half ropes as we were planning to rap the route. There are stations (pitons, nuts, a few bolts) set up for 30m rappels if needed although at least one more station would need to be built for 30m and there would be a lot of down scrambling. With some additional stations it would be reasonable to rap with a single 60m. Make sure to have a hammer to check pitons if you do plan to rap.

After going up it, we decided going down the same way would be quite tedious so we walked off the back. It was mostly quite pleasant until the famous side-hilling section, but that was actually pretty short. I would probably walk off again. 4 hours down to the river crossing.