Announcement

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GSI shutting down

It is with regret that Gravsports Ice will be closing soon. Despite all of us here and many in the community being of the opinion that GSI is a better archiving system for information on ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies, this website will be shutting down.

Keeping the lights on and keeping conditions current no longer seems practical. We have tried making the forums more user friendly, and kept access to a vast array of beta and history contained on the website open to all. However low participation and increasing costs from both the website and hacker intrusions have lead us to this decision. Many thanks to Ian for past hosting costs. While the website will remain live for a short while you can expect it to disappear soon. We have talked of options to preserve the beta it contains however we offer no guarantees at this time.

We thank all our supporters, and everyone in the community for your past participation in GSI.
Regretfully
Will, Ian, and Grant.
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Patterson East Ridge

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  • Patterson East Ridge

    Climbed Patterson’s East Ridge on Aug 26 with Malcolm Sangster. This route has been on the list for a long time, and it did not disappoint. The positions are amazing and the climbing is varied and fun. See Dave Jones Rockies West and old posts here for beta.

    The route is currently in great shape. The approach couloir is good snow for the bottom 2/3 which was quite quick cramping up, then we moved right onto the rock. The upper steps are dry and were warm when in the sun. The rock is surprising good in places and unsurprisingly bad in others. We took cams 0.4-3 with doubles of .75 and 1, nuts and a few pitons, 12 alpine draws. We used pretty much all the cams, especially the doubles and did not place any pins. Above the steps we were able to bypass all but one of the snow sections on dry rock - although if I did it again I would put on the crampons and go on the snow to speed things up. We were 9 hours up, soloing the bottom 1000m to the glacier then pitching out the 5.6-5.7 and simuclimbing the rest.

    We took 60m half ropes as we were planning to rap the route. There are stations (pitons, nuts, a few bolts) set up for 30m rappels if needed although at least one more station would need to be built for 30m and there would be a lot of down scrambling. With some additional stations it would be reasonable to rap with a single 60m. Make sure to have a hammer to check pitons if you do plan to rap.

    After going up it, we decided going down the same way would be quite tedious so we walked off the back. It was mostly quite pleasant until the famous side-hilling section, but that was actually pretty short. I would probably walk off again. 4 hours down to the river crossing.


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