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Mount Forbes (NW Face) - July 29-31, 2019

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  • Mount Forbes (NW Face) - July 29-31, 2019

    The day I finished classes for the summer, I packed my car with an obscene amount of gear and drove to the DTC to meet Matt. We rendezvoused, but had to make a last minute itinerary change, settling on Mount Forbes. Over the next three days we approached via Glacier Lake and climbed Forbes by its NW Face. More details in the photo captions.

    Approach Beta: Follow a well maintained trail to the lake. From Glacier Lake, stay on the trail as it follows the N shore. Past the lake, the trail gets fainter but is still present. Try not to lose it in marshy sections. Here it travels relatively close to the main stream, sometimes necessitating the crossing of small side-waters. Stay focused and you'll stay on it. Do not cross until above the tributary descending from the Mons Glacier, where the river is braided. About thigh deep for us, but could be deeper earlier on in the season or after a hot spell. Pick up and follow sporadic flagging at the opposite treeline, right of Mons Creek. Follow faint bits of trail up slabs, scrubby forest, and an avalanche slope of dense willows (there may a trail here somewhere) to gain the E shoulder of division mountain. Scramble over and down about 100m to Mons Creek (bivy sites near clear tarns). I would recommend that instead of bivying here as we did, either cross Mons Creek, cold and thigh deep, or (better) walk out onto the toe of the Mons Glacier, crossing above where the stream emerges, and downstream (NE) ~50m on the far (E) side of the creek. From here, scramble generally E up unstable moraine and occasional glacial slabs to some decent bivy spots by the tarn at the foot of the Forbes glacier.


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  • #2
    Climbing in the clouds, we were shook my the flash-bang (sans delay) of a near lightening strike. We immediately turned tail and had descended about 50m when the summit again cleared off and we decided to make a break for it.

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