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Mount Victoria Traverse - August 29-30, 2019

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  • Mount Victoria Traverse - August 29-30, 2019

    What's the best way to bounce back from failure on a big objective? Hop on another big objective. The day after deproaching from our attempt at the NE Ridge and Bryce, I joined up with Nick Baggaley for a run at the Mount Victoria Traverse (IV 5.easy).

    I've found there to be quite a limited amount of beta available outside Select Alpine Climbs and Rockies Central, neither of which have a ton to say.

    We had a late start after a painful experience with getting a bivy permit from the LL Visitor Center. We planned to break the route up anyway, so this mostly affected where we stopped for the night. Overall, the route was pretty much all Type 1 fun in the conditions we had it, and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it as a long day for competent parties.

    Beta: There are bivy sites near the N summit, and at Abbot Pass--with few appealing options between the N and S summit. We performed one rappel between the summits, and one S of S Victoria. We used none of our rock pro, but did use both ice tools for some steep snow climbing. When in doubt, stay left (E) of the ridge crest to bypass pinnacles/notches etc. Staying on the crest is an option, but will add considerable difficulties. If you go too early or on a wetter year, detouring to the E may not be an option and the venture may become considerably more complicated. The rock is very poor between the summits. Confidence soloing low-fifth terrain is essential as many sections would be difficult to protect.

    More info in the photo captions.

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    Last edited by Steven N; 13-Dec-2019, 10:11 pm.

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