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Kitchener East Ridge

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  • Kitchener East Ridge

    James Young and I climbed Kitchener East Ridge Aug 30. Not sure I would recommend this route currently as its A LOT of scree and the snow that remains was getting very soft, but it is climbable. Likely much better earlier in the season, or on skis. Regardless, the summit views are amazing and worth the trip.

    We car camped, but got in too late to choose the best way across the river so we left the car at dawn. We crossed where the Dome drainage joined the Athabasca runoff (and came out the same spot), knee deep in the am, thigh deep in the pm.

    We went up the Dome drainage (rather than over K2), following the crest of the old lateral moraine a few hundred meters above the valley bottom on the climbers right, then up the descent scree to the K2-K col. A long way on crappy scree. If I were doing it again I would stay on the ridge and go over K2 as described by Corbett - probably easier walking and better views. The snow field/small glacier was boot top pen in the am and shin to knee deep on descent early afternoon (overcast day). There is one big major crevasse that is well bridged in the middle but it could be a problem on a sunny day (SE facing). We also discovered one small random slot on the way down.

    The notch was shitty as described. We rapped on a 30m rope, 10m ascending and 15m rap (just) descending. We extended the bottom anchor to a bit more protected spot and beefed it up with some new pins and cord. The rock is super loose but climbs easily at around 5.5, we found a few decent nut placements.

    We took the same route down from the K-K2 col on the way down (described descent by Corbett). That is some super crappy scree. Most of it too large to slide, but too small to be stable. We dropped all the way to the valley bottom and walked on the very rough rubble covered glacier. That sucked, I suggest staying up on the lateral moraine crest instead - after the first major cliff bands trend skiers left and look for the ridge a few hundred metres above valley bottom.

    About 12 hours round trip, 15km, 1670m.
    Last edited by bryce; 31-Aug-2019, 01:05 pm.

  • #2
    We climbed it last May as a lengthy isothermal suffer-fest (not reccomended). That being said, I have attached the GPS including the natural bridge over the Sunwapta on the N approach for a no-ford ascent.
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